2599CIWA (P1121501W L) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Freezer full, so first thought door had been left slightly adjar. Verified the compressor was runing. Left to hopefully cool down. Did not happen. Searching for cause after covers were removed identified that fan in freezer was not working and ice had built up . While troubleshooting, the freezer went through a defrost cycle. Juryrigged the fan to run continuosly and concluded the defrost thermostat must be the problem.
Installed new thermostate when recieved. No change! Deeper search then found crack in the defroster coil, which must have worked off and on but finaly failed completely.

Bought new refidgerator, as this was just one more problem with this older refridgirator. Also ordered new defroster coil to hopefully fix up the old refridgerator as a garage spare.

, to remove the inlet tube holder/guide gadget thingee: (1) remove the three Phlipscrews from the motor end of the housing. (2) pull the housing straight off the end. (3) remove two Philips screws in deep holes that hold the ice tray onto the motor housing. (4) this frees the ice tray assembly, which you have to pull out, freeing the rotating blades, from which (5) you slide the sxle out of the middle of the inlet-tube thingee, so (6) you can then remove the inlet gadget from the ice tray.

You then reverse these instructions to reassemble with the correct inlet gadget. The tricky part is the front cover that hides the ice-tray from view. That cover has a couple of ears that have to fit into mating holes in the motor housing before you replace the two deep-hole Philips screws that hold the tighten the ice-tray assembly back onto the motor housing.

So it's too bad they don't see the ice-maker assembly with all the knock-outs inplace, so you can knock out the one you want. Other than that, it would have been no more trouble than other people have reported in working in the tight space inside the freezer compartment.

pulled out old socket and replaced supposed to be a duel socket but no longer exists

Removed water inlet solenoids screws on base and pulled it out about 6 inches; removed 4 tubing nuts. Replaced unit with new and replaced tubing and base. This did not solve the problem so I ordered ice maker unit. Should of checked the inside of the ice maker ias the protective coating was pretty much history so I would ordered it first, and then ordered the inlet valve.

Replaced ice maker but now water valve wont work

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

Most difficult part was finding where they hid the defrost timer. (it is in the left front under the fridge behind the kick panel.) just unscrew the two fastener screws from the front, tilt fridge up on one side, slide timer bracket back and remove. Unplug and remove timer from metal bracket. Replace timer and remount bracket.

I made use of instructions for other users, see 'My ice maker has been shedding.....' and they were very helpful. The one problem not covered - the instructions that came with the new icemaker said to 'remove the bearing and inlet from the old icemaker and install in the new icemaker', but gave no instructions for how to accomplish this.

The old inlet has a square opening in the back and a u-shaped knockout in the side. The new one has a round opening in the side and square knockout in the back)

After several attempts to remove them, I gave up and used the new inlet with the knockout removed. I did not attempt to cover the side opening and it worked fine that way - no leaks.

Pop off six mounting screws and the ground screw. Remove the fan blade and reattach. Reinstall. Save yourself big bucks.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

There are basically three screws that hold the unit in place on the inside of the freezer. Removing them is relatively easy, and the unit is replaced with the same three screws. You do have to use the formed metal wire from your old unit, so don't throw it out! You also have to use the wiring harness from your old unit.

remove old gasket and replace with new gasket.
replace cam kit, easy to remove a little diffcult to replace. tight on the corners. trick to get gasket into lip.

My wife just snapped it in.

Removed top hinge cover and socketed out hinge nuts. Lifted door off bottom hinge. Socketed out broken bottom cam and replaced with new. Reset door with someone lifting and the other guiding. Reattached top hinge and cover. Voila.

I removed the screws on the back of the refrigerator revealing the water valve, disconnected the water supply, removed the two outlet hoses and removed the bad valve. Replaced in the opposite manner.