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Refrigerator and freezer running to warm.
I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.
I followed the instructions on your website, made it a simple as possible. Very tight work area sometimes fingers only, but a little patience works. Saved at least $300. By not paying a repair person.
Disconnect the power. To install the Defrost timer which is located inside the console at the top of the fridge I followed a YouTube video. It is very easy. Keep in mind that the Defrost timer comes settled in defrost mode so the compressor will not start after the power is reconnected.There is a hole in the console just behind the Defrost timer where you engaged it with a flat driver and rotate the clock until the compresor start. Now the compressor works for 6 hours and stop for 20 minutes for the defrosting cicle. The freezer now is freezing the meat!!
Unplug, remove 2 screws off back panel inside the freezer. Cut wires on old one and crimped in new one. Light to melt the shrink wrap that came with it. Pretty easy.
Both frig Racks I ordered cracked in the middle from use over 15 yrs
took out all items off the shelves from frig - followed the instructions on Steve's video installed 2 new racks replaced all items on the shelves everything worked fine
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
Figuring out how to remove the cracked door rack was the most complication I had. Once I figured out how to push it up it was easy to remove and then replace it with the new part by just placing it over the nobs and pushing down. No tools needed, just hands.
Door switch was no longer making my light go on when door opened
I used the youtube you provided. It was pretty straight forward, but I had to make a trip to the hardware store for a bit (hex wrench) to remove the hex bolt head style screws. I was only expecting to need phillips or flathead. I managed to remove one with a set of pliers, and the brought that example to the store for size reference when buying the bit to fit my black and decker drill. The rest was easy.
The bulb wasn't the issue so I was hopeful the switch was. utube helped me some, but figuring my model was different than any on utube. Got the switch in and plugged it back in. Moment of truth. Didn't light. Ugggh! Out $50 for switch plus $20 for nut driver set.
Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch. Now what?