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ice maker quit making ice
I basically followed the instructions offered when i searched for the ice maker. It was relatively easy to do, I undid the 2 screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, the was the tricky part, holding a mirror so i could see the slots of the screws. loosened them, disconnected the electrical connection and reversed the process for the install. It took about 25 minutes and i was back making ice.
I put the refrigerator and saw that the fan wasn't working so I change the fan and the problem still the same. I order a timer and thermostat and change them, nothing change so I order the capacitor and when I remove it I saw that the relay swith was burn out so I order a switch and evarything is ok. The problem when the fan broke the compressor overheat and burn the swich. I learn a lot and still saving money over these repair guy.
Took the ice storage bin out. Took the unit apart,and disamble the augar unit. Ordered parts from manufacture, which arrived in two days. As soon as I got the parts, I reassambled it. Work perfect. Good job!
plastic drawer edges were broken and would not support the drawer or allow it to slide in and out
I removed the front cover from the original drawer and slid it onto the new one from PartSelect. Perfect fit. I recieved my part in only two days with regular ground shipping and I am completely satisfied with the part and service.
Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.
Loosened the 2 screws a little so that it would slide up and off then unplugged the wire harness. Installed the new one in reverse order and works like a champ.
it was really easy changing the ice maker. the only trouble i had was the wiring. it was very stiff and hard to route. it did not work at first but that was my fault did not have the connector plugged in all the way.since then it works great.
I followed all the usual suggestions about changing the water filter and disconnecting the exterior copper line and testing it to make sure flow was steady. I then got ambitious and diconnected and tested the flow of water through each of the refrigerator's interior valves. Isolating my problem inside the dual valve that regulates feed into the water dispenser and icemaker I was able to clear out the blockage with a small dustbuster air cannister but reassmbling the valves somehow caused the valve to no longer function right so I ordered a replacement valve and had it all reconnected in five minutes once the part arrived. A simple repair to avoid a very costly replacement! Partselect has now been used by me to repair my oven, refrigerator (twice) and microwave. A pretty good alternative to replacing an appliance if you are willing to try your own repair.
Had water constantly leaking to ice maker and freezing up also water constantly dripping at water dispenser
I started by shutting off water supply and unplugged refrigerator. Then using a nutdriver removed back lower panel exposing the dual inlet water valve on the left side which was held in place with one bolt. After unbolting the valve you can pull the entire assembly out enough to remove the three water connections. The instructions suggest cutting of about 1/2" off of the two discharge lines to provide a better connection to the new valve. The entire process was very simple. The price of the part was a small fraction of the new refrigerator my wife was threatening to buy if I did not get her ice maker working again. Thanks for another great repair experience!
Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers. My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring. Success! My coils no longer freeze up. Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.
Turned off water and unplugged refrigerator. Removed rear cardboard pannel. Removed screw holding valve, unscrewed water lines, disconnected wires. Drained excess water into cup. Reinstalled lines on new valve. Reconnected wires. Installed into place. Reinstalled cover. Done. Wasn't sure if this was the problem but narrowed it down to a few things. Valve wasn't closing all of the way allowing water to continue to drip into ice maker and out door. Works perfectly. Oreder on Sunday received by Tuesday. No complaints for PartsSelect.
Frequent dripping on floor and no cycling of compressor
After posting the specific symptoms and getting feedback, I had narrowed the cause to two linked parts. I ordered both intending to replace first one, then the other as needed. With parts in hand, I pulled off the freezer control knob, used a nut driver to remove the two panel securing screws (behind the face, against the inner ceiling) and gently dropped the cover down. The control (temp sensor and cold control) is easily accessible as it sits wedged into two slots in the plastic cover. The control must be slightly lifted in order to extract the long sensor that attaches to the control and runs under it and into a plastic sleeve behind the panel (the new control comes with the sensor wrapped in a tight coil and it must be unwound for the install). Removed the three wires noting which color goes where. Used needle-nose pliers to remove the small push-on tabs and removed the control. After starting the new sensor probe into the sleeve re-attached the 3 wires to the new control. Used the original as a model for how to pre-bend the probe for the first 2 inches as it was mildly frustrating to position the unit back correctly. Pushed everything back into place, re-installed the screws and plugged the fridge back in...(you DID unplug it first, right?). Still haven't used the second part (defrost timer), but I expect it to go soon...it is a 17 year old refrigerator, after all.