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Had a broken door bin and shelf support stud
I pulled out the old support stud with a pair of pliers, pushed the new stud in, and gave it a few taps with the hammer to secure it in the fridge wall. For the door bin I just slid the new bin in place.
Replaced the plastic/nylon piece on the door. First, I remove the door hinge cover by unscrewing the one bolt. Second, unbolted the two bolts that hold the door in place. Third, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Four, remove the bottom plate that is held in place by 3 screws. Five, using pliers move the old plastic piece from the bottom of the door. Six, press into place the replacement part. Seven, re-install the bottom plate. Eight, rehang the door on the bottom hinge. Nine, restall the top hinge and rebolt the two bolts that hold the hinge in place. Ten, reinstall the top cover. Finished.
evaporator coil would freeze up solid. no air flow through coil; no cooling.
-unplug power cord.(safety first! -Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective. -use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up. -unclip thermostat from coil. -cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat. -clip on new defrost thermostat. -connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included) -replace coil cover. -plug power cord back in.
take out screws front control panel ,then screws on left panel holding control unit. had to clean up plastic she got a little toasty. unhooked control unit replaced with new and reassembled. The real story is in your excellent web site easy to find exactly what I need and with prompt shipping, I was back in service quicker than having someone come out and repair.
I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!
This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.
un plug fridge. removed ice maker from fridge. loosen 2 mounting screws. lift unit in slots to get over heads of screws. unplug wire harness. remove cover. remove 3 screws from control housing. remove 2 motor mounting screws. unplug motor wires from switches w/needle nose. installation is the reverse. plug in fridge turn on icemaker. takes 10 to 15 min to start to cycle. easy and cheaper than new fridge or ice maker
This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!
I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.
A plastic guide rail broke after the meat keeper drawer was left open and the refrigerator door was shut on the drawer, this has happened a few times over the last 6 years. We chose to change out both rails at the same time. We removed the meatkeeper drawer, then the shelf above as the rails are attached to the shelf. We removed the rails (one screw on each side. When the new rails came in, we replaced them with the screws. Super easy!
Removed stuff on door, removed 2 screws on top of door, lifted door off replaced one door closure/hinge bearing and one door closing plate and put door back on and wala no more thump.
