2477A - Instructions

After reading up on the problem of the gas oven not lighting I decided I needed to install a new igniter. I had read where some people just pulled a panel off the back and installed a new one.. yeah, no such luck with this model so I had to crawl into the broiler drawer space [which I had to clean out first]. Note, if you wear trifocal glasses you might as well close your eyes and replace it by feel because there is no way to tilt your head back enough to see what you are doing and still get both arms and your chest in a broiler. Also be sure to remove all cats and dogs from the area before starting. They seem to think they can help or it's a game of hide and seek and they want to hide with you.. they were no help at all.
Other than that, it was quite easy.

1. Turned off circuit breaker to stove
2. Removed the two screws holding down the floor of the oven (screws are at back.), and then lifted it out.
3. Removed the nut holding down the flame guard, and lifted it off.
4. Opened the bottom drawer.
5. Removed the protective cover in the back left of the oven at the bottom, first removing the one screw at the bottom that holds it. This reveals a white plug, presumably going to a fuse.
6. Disconnected the white plastic connector, lifting its front tab to release it.
7. The igniter wires go to two lugs that attach at the floor of the oven at the back (one goes via the now free white connector). Slide back the plastic lug covers and use pliers to pull off the lugs. Note that the wider one (on the right) goes to the top of the igniter, while the narrower one (on the left) goes to the bottom of the igniter via the white plastic connector.
8. Removed the two bolts holding the igniter.
9. At this point, the igniter comes out. Nice, since it means you can work on the wires in comfort.
10. Slide the flame retardant sleeves away from the igniter. I found in-line connections about 1.5 inches from the igniter, and cut the wires next to these (on the side away from the igniter, of course.), and stripped the final 3/8 inch. Shorten the wires on the replacement igniter so that they are 3 or 4 inches long, slide on the flame retardant sleeves, then strip the final 3/8ths inch. Use the provided caps to connect the wires. Bottom wire goes to the plastic connector, top wire goes to the wide lug.
11. Install the new igniter by connecting the lugs, sliding on their protective plastic sleeves, reconnecting the white plastic connector, screwing in the two igniter mounting screws, and reinstalling the corner cover. Put back the flame shield and floor of the oven. Turn on the circuit breaker, and it works!

Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new

I first looked up my Model Number on PartSelect.com and looked at the schematic as well as Trouble Shooted my problem.

Reading the posts by others how they Removed, Replaced, and Repaired their Oven Ignitors, I used their helpful info, and of course did mine.

1. Unplugged my Oven/Stove.

2. Removed bottom storage door to get access to cover plate.

3. Removed oven racks inside oven to gain access to and removed Flame Cover.

4. Removed Screw holding Oven Ignitor in place.

5. Unplugged Ignitor Plug from feed wird in Oven from underneath.

6. Removed Oven Ignitor from the bottom area where storage drawer was.

7. Installed new Ignitor and replaced screw holding Ignitor assembly in place.

8. Replace Flame cover and racks.

9. Plugged in new ignitor underneath, and replaced cover plate.

10. Plugged in Stove/Oven and Oven began to heat! IGNITOR worked!

11. Replaced bottom drawer and slid Stove back into position.

All went easy and only difficulty was replacing cover plate below as it is awkward and having to line up screws/holes was a bit trying.

Using Work Light essential to see well, and, some screws may or can be hard to remove.

Both my neighbor and I ordered our Ignitors within a week of each other. My Oven was Amana his is a Tappan. His failed after a few weeks, but, PartSelect replaced promptly and we are all happy.

Turned Off Breaker!
Removed 2 screws that held Igniter in place.
Cut Old Wires Free
Marked location to old igniter with tape so I didn't cross connect.
Stripped new wire ends.
Used Wire Nuts to connect New part (provided).
Installed New Igniter with 2 screws.
Flipped Breaker On.
Tested
WORKS PERFECT.

Saved over $500.00 by repairing rather than replacing.

The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.

I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.

I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repair in 10 minutes.

I pulled the fridge away from the wall.

I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.

I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.

I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.

Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.

I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.

I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.

My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.

filled both ice cube trays up with water and placed in the freezer.. within hours my ice oproduction was doubled! no more warm cocktails : )

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

The igniter has to be drawing atleast 3 amps for the gas valve to open. If it only draws 2.6 amps like the one i replaced it, the oven won't light.

1: Remove oven door.
2: Remove bottom shield, slide in.
3: Remove flame deflector four (4) screws, nut driver.
4: Remove igniter, two (2) screws, nut driver.
5: Remove lower drawer, slide in.
6: Remove wire shield, two (2) screws, nut driver.
7: Disconnect two (2) wire nuts, hands
8: Remove old igniter, hands
9: Install new part in reverse order...

I should have ordered it earlier. It was so easy to install. At first, the oven took 1 minute to light, then, a bit longer, finally around 20 minutes, I told my husband that he needs to get it fixed. So, finally when it wouldn't light at all... I ordered the part and had him install it. It took less than 15 minutes, listening to him the whole time. Now it's wonderful, like a new oven again. Lights up like it should.

Great part selection. Fast service. Thank you

rmv panel (5min) rmv fan/motor 3 screws (10 m) cut wire 2in from motor, re route remainder of wire to front so can strip for wire nuts. ( 10m) attach old fan to new motor, place in old opening ,3 screws, a little fussy to align, ( 15m ) route and strip wire from new motor , zip ties work well, wire nuts , plug in fridge vola, no noise, close up, reverse panel. ( 20m). i also took time to clean grilles with small vac and damp rag, ( looks and sounds like new) bob Wi.

Turned off the breaker to the oven. Took out the racks and oven floor. Took out the steel deflector that sits on top of the oven burner itself (one bolt/washer). Removed the two bolts holding the igniter. Pulled the old igniter around the other side of the burner to be able to better access the wires. There was a woven sleeve around the ends of the wires, pulled those down the wire to expose the connection. There was an inline connector about 2-3 inches from the igniter, and normal wire after that. I cut the wires where that connection was made and stripped 3/8 inch off the cut wires. Then I cut the wires of the new igniter to the same length as what remained on the old igniter, stripped 3/8 inch off of those, paired them up and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new part to make the new connections. Put it all back together, and fired it up. It works wonderfully!

Turned off water supply and unplugged appliance. Removed lower panel on back of refrigerator with 1/4 " nutdriver. Then removed supply line, and line to icemaker. removed valve from back panel and replaced with new valve. wrapped water connections with teflon tape, turned on supply line, checked for leaks, everything o.k..Replaced back panel and in 45 minutes had first drop of ice. Job requires moderate mechanical ability and minimum tools. Saved a PANT load of money by doing it myself. VERY satisfied with Partselect.com

It was amazingly easy! I am a woman who was a little afraid to deal with wires. But it was just so super easy! And, I saved a bundle by doing it myself! Here's how I did it:
(1) UNPLUGGED OVEN FROM WALL!!!
(2) Remove floor of oven (1 screw)
(3) Remove large metal strip underneath oven floor (2 screws)
(4) Removed oven igniter (2 screws)
(5) Marked top wire of old igniter before cutting
(6) Cut both wires close to old igniter
(7) Removed a little of the covering of the old wires to expose bare wire
(8) Matched up old top wire with new top wire & twisted both old wires to the new wires
(9) Replaced all screws and oven parts

My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!