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The water and ice on the door were not producing water or ice
1. Moved the firdge out so I had room to get bhind it. 2. Un-plugged the fridge so I didn't get electrocuted. 3. disconnected the the water hose from the broken water inlet with adjustable wrench. 4. Put hose in bucket to drain and moped up water from inlet valve with towel. 5. removed the 2 scrwes with socket driver that holds inlet on fridge. 6. reached in behind the inlet valve and unplugged the wires from the inlet valve (total of 2 plugs) 7. pulled the inlet valve out of the back of the fridge. 8. removed the bolt that holds the ground wire the metal plate that the inlet valve was connected to. 9. removed the defective inlet valve from the metl plate and tossed the defect valves. 10. put the metal plate on the new inlet valve. 11. screwed on the ground wire to the metal plate from new valve. 12. plugged in the 2 plugs back onto there proper locations on the inlet valve. 13. put the assembly back into place in the back of the fridge and screwed in the remaining 2 screws to hold it in place. 14. Put plumbers tape around outside of inlet to reduce leaks. 15. re-attached the hose and tightened it with the wrench. 16. turned on the water from the wall and verified there were no leaks. 17. Plugged in the fridge and tested that the water on the door worked. 18. Pushed the fridge back into place and the kids could once again enjoy water from the door of the fridge and in about 5 hours we had some ice again for our drinks.
On PartSelect.com this part is only associated with the icemaker. It is actually a dual valve... one for the ice maker and one for the water dispenser. Be sure to match the blue and brown colors of the valve housings to the same hose colors.
The really scary part of this job was cleaning up behind and under the fridge, but also something that was long over due and the perfect opportunity to vacuum out the condenser coils.
Removed 7 hex screws holding carboard cover in place, verified water valve was inop. Ordered and recieved new part and installed. Diagnostic and actual repair under 1/2 hour.
Moved frig away from wall, unpluged and took off lower back panel. Disconnected water line and ice maker lines from water valve (after shutting water off). Removed 2 screws, New valve was exact replacement. With new valve in hand, I removed electrical connecters one at a time and placed them on new valve. Put new valve in place, inserted 2 screws and tightened, Connected water lines, checked for leaks, moved frig back in place, job complete. No more drips, worked perfect. Total time, about 30 min.
replacement was relative easy. The problem came with wire connector that had to be cut, stripped and crimped. The crimping was the dificult part. the connector was a problem to crimp.
Followed the online PartSelect video instructions and it was very helpful. The ice maker has to cycle through before it starts making ice so don't be alarmed when nothing happens when you first hook it up.
Merely remove the front bottom screw that attached the ice maker to the refrigerator Lift the ice maker gently off of the 2 top screws Unplug the icemaker wiring harness from the back of the refrigerator, and remove Snap off the end of the maker and remove the keeper for the wire arm Remove the wire arm and install on new maker Unplug the wiring harness from the old maker and plug into the new one Plug the harness into the refrigerator, slip the new maker over the top screws, with the water feed tube inserted into the maker Install bottom screw into the bracket that holds it in place. This took less than 5 minutes.
Outer case of freezer was heating up, not making ice (sometimes) turned up thermostat several times (especially freezer)
I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.
Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well
use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks
****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years
changed the light bulb still would not work so I figured it was the switch sure enough.
I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
