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11082832100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11082832100
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Broken Door Catch
The Door Catch Kit had clear instructions for installation and included multiple replacement catches to fit several different sizes/varieties of dryers. I used a screwdriver to pry out the broken door catch, popped in the replacement, and was done! As usual, PartSelect had what I needed at a good price, with clear instructions for any needed installation. Fast shipping, too.
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Barbara from Oakland, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer does not heat
First I reviewed the diagram to become familiar where items were located. I then insured unit was unpluged I used nutdriver to remove front cover from dryer. Noticed a lot of lint. Good time to vacuum it made finding screws and wires easier.Next Located heating element as described in parts location diagram. Utilized small socket to remove screws in cover plate. the socket set allow easy access to screws under cover plate. Removed 2 electrical wires from heating element. Pull heating element from housing with needle nose pliers. Had to tug a little, inspected element and found break in heating coil.Placed in new element by using reverse installation procedure. (didn't replace lint)This was an easy fix and I saved lots of dollars on repair or hundreds on new dryer. I spent about 20 minutes on the entire project. If you can read you can do this project. Very easy to complete. PS Ordering the parts was easy and arrived earlier than exepected.
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element
  • James from Forsyth, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
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Dryer was squealing
Repair was fairly easy, lots of screws to remove but the instructions in the online repair manual were very clear. Lots of stuff to remove (top, front, drum, etc.) but not too challenging. Only tough thing was disconnecting one of the connectors on the electronics board, had to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the part to get them separated. Once I had it all apart it was very easy to replace the wheels and the belt. Putting it back together was easier than taking it apart.
Parts Used:
Dryer Repair Kit
  • Jeff from York, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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Dryer wouldn't heat up
This was such an easy repair that my brother (who is a handyman but with no dryer experience) was able to remove the old element and install the new one in about 30 minutes. I was so happy that I found this website and that the part worked on the first try. I think my dryer works better than ever before!!
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element
  • Angela from Elgin, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Lint filter - The felt piece came apart from the screen unit.
My Daughter and I have the same washer and dryer from Maytag. Her felt piece came apart on the lint filter. I let my fingers do the walking and checked which filter went with the dryer and purchased it. When it got here, I made sure it matched up with the old one and just put it in the dryer where it belonged.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • Patricia from Alliance, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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ice tray was broken
This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin
Parts Used:
Leveling Foot
  • mike from fitchburg, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Excessive Idler Pulley wear; very noisy
1. Disconnect power cord and remove flexible duct. 2. Tilt dryer back and lean against wall, using folded towel to prevent wall damage. 3. Remove front/bottom panel - 4 screws on front/bottom of dryer. 4. Make alignment marks on internal vent duct where it attaches to vent bottom duct housing. Remove internal vent duct screw (towards front/top of duct) and slide vent duct out back of dryer (duct has to be removed to remove back panel) 5. Remove top panel (4 screws on back/top). 6. Remove AC power terminal block from back panel, disconnecting wire that restricts free movement of terminal block. Remove power cord from terminal block (3 nuts). Remove back panel (many screws). 7. From rear of dryer, gain access to idler pulley spring arm. Carefully note how belt routes around motor pulley and idler pulley (maybe record an image). Release belt from idler pulley. 8. Remove idler pulley triangle retainer (if still on pulley shaft) and remove old pulley. 9. Thoroughly vacuum lint and dust from all areas of dryer, internal duct, flexible duct and duct in wall (as far as possible) while dryer is in disassembled state. 10. Thoroughly clean idler pulley shaft of deposits with cloth. If desired, add very small amount of Park Tools Polylube 1000 to the cleaned shaft. 11. Install new washer, idler pulley and triangle retainer to shaft. 12. Re-route belt around pulley in original orientation. 13. Reassemble rear panel to dryer, terminal block to rear panel, and power cable and internal wire to terminal block. 14. Reassemble top cover to dryer. 15. Insert internal duct back into front vent duct, aligning guide marks, and secure with the one screw. 16. Plug unit in and briefly test, then unplug. 17. Again, tilt dryer against wall and reinstall front/bottom panel and screws. 18. Install flexible duct, plug in power cord and position unit for operation.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley
  • Tim from Greenville, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The dryer woulden't start
I read the instructions on the internet. It told me what to trouble shoot first. The switch on the door then the thermo fuse and after that the thermostat. The off on switch on the door checked ok but the thermo fuse didn't when I followed the instructions on the internet. The thermostat did check ok. When I installed the new thermo fuse the dryer started like always before. I was pretty proud of myself for saving a hundred dollars or more. Thank you for the hlpful instructions.Larry
Parts Used:
Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal
  • Larry from Walla Walla, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
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Tumbler belt replacement.
I must say what really made this install/replacement easy is the YouTube video link that was included with the belt replacement part. Once I saw the video (which showed my exact model dryer) it was a piece of cake! There was some work involved but once I got all the screws removed and took the shell off, installing the belt was a cake walk after watching the video. Many thanks!
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Mizael from Corpus Christi, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Loss of heat
I removed the front lower cover to the unit, located the heater and removed that. I installed the new unit and closed everything back up.
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element Moisture Sensor
  • Jonathan from Alton Bay, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dryer stopped heating
Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Anna from Marietta, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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The catch on the dryer door had to be replaced
Six(6) screws were removed to separate the front and rear sections of the dryer door to get access to the rear of the catch.Pliers were used to maneuver the catch through the opening in the cabinet from the rear. The new catch was easily snapped into the catch opening from the front of the door.
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Vincent A. from Gibsonia, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Handle broke
Thank you to the person who commented on the installation of this part.
Parts Used:
Door Handle - Black
  • Shari from Gilbert, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer would shut off before the clothes were dry, with an E1 error code
I purchased a replacement "Thermistor", "Electrode", and "Door Catch Kit" for my 2002 Kenmore Elite He3 electric dryer. I watched several repair video's but wasn't thrilled with the instructions or the high degree of "remove and replace" of components, just to get the the parts I wanted to replace. I took the top panel off my dryer and removed the troubleshooting guide. It showed that the Thermistor, Electrode, and several other components, could be accessed from the front lower panel. I removed the panel, and then the blower cover (two screws and a clip). This gave me access to the Thermistor. It was a little tight, but I removed the part with little problem. Unfortunately the Thermistor the company sent me for my dryer model was incorrect. Not only would it not seat flush in the oblong hole in the blower housing, but the male electrical connectors were a 16th to an 8th inch too wide for the female connectors on the dryer. I ended up cleaning the old Thermistor and re-installed it. We'll see what happens. The Electrode was no problem, I simply removed the lint cover from inside the dryer (3 screws), and carefully pulled the slack in the wire harness enough to remove the electrical connections from the ends of the Electrode. That could have been done without removing the lower panel, but unless you've done it before, I'd recommend removing it, and the blower cover. It gives a better view of the connections. The electrodes have a small metal catch that holds it in the plastic vent cover. You can see it on the replacement part you'll have before you remove the old one. The door catch's are a no brainer. You can look at the new ones and see how that fit. They also come with well written instructions. Good luck with your repairs.
Parts Used:
Thermostat, Internal-Bias Moisture Sensor Door Catch Kit
  • Richard from Allyn, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Door latch broke
Exactlyt how your video showed me. I was a bit skeptical, but it was the easiest repair ever.Thank you
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Leandra from Miami, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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All Instructions for the 11082832100
316 - 330 of 480