11082832100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

My Daughter and I have the same washer and dryer from Maytag. Her felt piece came apart on the lint filter. I let my fingers do the walking and checked which filter went with the dryer and purchased it. When it got here, I made sure it matched up with the old one and just put it in the dryer where it belonged.

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

1. Disconnect power cord and remove flexible duct. 2. Tilt dryer back and lean against wall, using folded towel to prevent wall damage. 3. Remove front/bottom panel - 4 screws on front/bottom of dryer. 4. Make alignment marks on internal vent duct where it attaches to vent bottom duct housing. Remove internal vent duct screw (towards front/top of duct) and slide vent duct out back of dryer (duct has to be removed to remove back panel) 5. Remove top panel (4 screws on back/top). 6. Remove AC power terminal block from back panel, disconnecting wire that restricts free movement of terminal block. Remove power cord from terminal block (3 nuts). Remove back panel (many screws). 7. From rear of dryer, gain access to idler pulley spring arm. Carefully note how belt routes around motor pulley and idler pulley (maybe record an image). Release belt from idler pulley. 8. Remove idler pulley triangle retainer (if still on pulley shaft) and remove old pulley. 9. Thoroughly vacuum lint and dust from all areas of dryer, internal duct, flexible duct and duct in wall (as far as possible) while dryer is in disassembled state. 10. Thoroughly clean idler pulley shaft of deposits with cloth. If desired, add very small amount of Park Tools Polylube 1000 to the cleaned shaft. 11. Install new washer, idler pulley and triangle retainer to shaft. 12. Re-route belt around pulley in original orientation. 13. Reassemble rear panel to dryer, terminal block to rear panel, and power cable and internal wire to terminal block. 14. Reassemble top cover to dryer. 15. Insert internal duct back into front vent duct, aligning guide marks, and secure with the one screw. 16. Plug unit in and briefly test, then unplug. 17. Again, tilt dryer against wall and reinstall front/bottom panel and screws. 18. Install flexible duct, plug in power cord and position unit for operation.

I read the instructions on the internet. It told me what to trouble shoot first. The switch on the door then the thermo fuse and after that the thermostat. The off on switch on the door checked ok but the thermo fuse didn't when I followed the instructions on the internet. The thermostat did check ok. When I installed the new thermo fuse the dryer started like always before. I was pretty proud of myself for saving a hundred dollars or more. Thank you for the hlpful instructions.Larry

I removed the front lower cover to the unit, located the heater and removed that. I installed the new unit and closed everything back up.

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Six(6) screws were removed to separate the front and rear sections of the dryer door to get access to the rear of the catch.Pliers were used to maneuver the catch through the opening in the cabinet from the rear. The new catch was easily snapped into the catch opening from the front of the door.

Thank you to the person who commented on the installation of this part.

I purchased a replacement "Thermistor", "Electrode", and "Door Catch Kit" for my 2002 Kenmore Elite He3 electric dryer. I watched several repair video's but wasn't thrilled with the instructions or the high degree of "remove and replace" of components, just to get the the parts I wanted to replace. I took the top panel off my dryer and removed the troubleshooting guide. It showed that the Thermistor, Electrode, and several other components, could be accessed from the front lower panel. I removed the panel, and then the blower cover (two screws and a clip). This gave me access to the Thermistor. It was a little tight, but I removed the part with little problem. Unfortunately the Thermistor the company sent me for my dryer model was incorrect. Not only would it not seat flush in the oblong hole in the blower housing, but the male electrical connectors were a 16th to an 8th inch too wide for the female connectors on the dryer. I ended up cleaning the old Thermistor and re-installed it. We'll see what happens. The Electrode was no problem, I simply removed the lint cover from inside the dryer (3 screws), and carefully pulled the slack in the wire harness enough to remove the electrical connections from the ends of the Electrode. That could have been done without removing the lower panel, but unless you've done it before, I'd recommend removing it, and the blower cover. It gives a better view of the connections. The electrodes have a small metal catch that holds it in the plastic vent cover. You can see it on the replacement part you'll have before you remove the old one. The door catch's are a no brainer. You can look at the new ones and see how that fit. They also come with well written instructions. Good luck with your repairs.

Exactlyt how your video showed me. I was a bit skeptical, but it was the easiest repair ever.Thank you

Using some advice here on this website, and a youtube video found by searching for 'idler pulley replacement' I was able to fix my dryer! Taking off the screws was simple, I used a cordless drill. I have some trouble removing the kick panel, and bent the latches, so there is a small gap between the dryer door panel and the kick panel, but it still works fine. Of note, you DO NOT need to remove the back panel, something I did and cost me some time. I am a bigger guy, so maneuvering on the floor to rig the dryer belt around the new idler pulley "in the dark" was cumbersome, but doable. All in all, an easy enough project for under $30 and less than an hour of my time. Kudos to this website, first, for the super fast shipping, and secondly, the reviewers who posted some instruction. Great job!

Using Partselect to troubleshoot, I determined the heating element was shot. Upon receiving the part, I disassembled the unit, inserted the new element and reconnected everything. It couldn't have been simpler and saved me a ton of money.

Disconnect the dryer from the power source and vent hose. Using the nut driver, remove all hex screws and the electric access panel from back of dryer. Loosen the electrical service cable clamp screws with philips screw driver and disconnect the ground wire. Remove the top panel from the dryer cabinet and the screws that hold the electrical bus in place, then remove the back panel from the dryer. Feed the electrical cable through the cable clamp and rest the back of the dryer against the side. Remove the tri-ring and old idler pulley, then clean and lubricate (WD40) the axel, and install the new pulley and tri-ring. Replace the back panel and all screws.

C/0 both thermostat sensors and fixed dryer Had no heat out ohmed out the coil and it was ok So I ordered both sensors and replaced them and dryer worked great

I followed the instruction for the video I got by email from partselect when I placed the order. 1. Removed front cover at the bottom of the machine. 2. Remove and take out the element base and pull out the element. 3. Install the new element. 4. Test. 5 Close front cover. 5 Run it