11060092991 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Dryer was making intermittent squealing noises sometimes it was amazingly loud, sometimes not so bad. Still, I figured this couldn't be good so I wanted to find a fix. Read the stories here and everything pointed to the 'idler pulley', so I figured I'd give it a try. For me, access was the hardest part -- my laundry room is small and I can't easily get the dryer out or move it around. Not a problem with the part, just my own setup. Important to note that this repair is best done through the BACK of the unit, not the front. Once I got access to the back (removing AC and Water used for the 'steam dry feature') I also had to disconnect several of the electrical connectors to get the unit fully apart. Good news -- the actual replacement of the pulley took about 1 minute! It was just all of the moving and disassembly that took so long. The original idler pulley had worked its way off of the shaft and was out of place and causing the squealing. All is well now, and I saved a bunch by doing it myself. No more squealing!

Searched for answers on what to do when my dryer wouldn't heat and came across PartSelect videos on how to troubleshoot and repair. So I followed the detailed videos step for step and turned out to be a very simple task to identify that the thermal cut off had blown. I ordered the kit and very fast delivery had the parts in my hand in two days. Following the repair video, and a double check of the wiring diagram, had me up and running again for less than $40. I don't see a need for going anywhere else for appliance parts in my future.

First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.

Removed the broken actuator and replaced with the new one. The time to replace the dryer door switch actuator took about 5 minutes.By the way, I purchased the dryer in 1965 and it works as if it was brand new. Thank you Kenmore for a lifetime dryer.

Removed the front cover of the dryer as well as the lint holder and framework to gain access to the thermal fuse which is behind it and mounted on the discharge side of lint fan. replaced fuse but the dryer still wouldn't heat each time the ignitor glowed. Also then replaced the solenoid (both of them) and this fixd the problem as it has been good for a week now. The solenoid issue is not easy to conclusively identify as an issue as it is inconsistent in operation.

Replaced Lint Screen

two screws on filter housing and then lift dryer to up like the hood of a car the two screws on actuator, be careful not to drop actuator, if you do use a magnet to retrieve, two screws back in then wire clip top of dryer down and two screws back into filter housing and your ready to dry clothes, not recommended but if you have to dry clothes while waiting for part a clamp on the switch will allow you to use dryer, but be extremely careful because dryer will not turn off when door is opened

Took screwdriver popped out old latch in cabnet. Took pliers popped out latch out of door. Snaped new latch parts back in.

got my kit from partselect and in no time i was drying cloths.

Removed the back panel and checked each of four thermal connections. The thermostat at the top of the heating element tested bad. I replaced both the top and bottom thermostats. Tested OK. Checked the vent pipe all the way to outside and tested clear. Inside of dryer was clear. Discovered that a visitor did not remember to clean the lint screen before/after each load. We set the dryer now to no more than 30 minutes at a time and ONLY on Medium Heat and it works fine. There is no need ever to use High Heat Setting. I was glad to find Whirlpool-authorized parts. I will never use generics again.

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

This did not require a "repair", just a replacement. I want to say that the response time and ease of ordering were very good. I would not hesitate to use PartSelect again when needed. Thank you!

pulled out old lint filter. Put in new lint filter.

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

I did continuity tests on the on/off push switch and the thermostats - all were good. After some research I discovered the thermal switch which is somewhat hidden on top of the blower. Sure enough, it failed the continuity test. The two sheet metal screws are difficult to loosen from the access door at the bottom of the dryer. You can test the fuse from that location but it's more difficult to replace it without taking the entire dryer apart, which is what I ultimately did. Once the drum is out the fuse is very accessible. However, if you need to make this repair, try replacing the fuse from the lower panel (and avoid the time/effort in removing the drum). You might be able to use a 1/4" open-end wrench (or pliers) to loosen the sheet metal screws. I only had a standard ratchet set which is too big to fit into that tight space. Either way, it's not a complicated repair...watch the installation video - it's not exact but it's close enough to guide you through this.