11060092991 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

The dryer was spinning, but the display said "sensing" for the whole cycle, and there was no heat. We took off the front of the dryer and the fuse was below the drum. This was an easy swap out, but it didn't fix the dryer. Then we ordered a thermistor, which also was an easy swap out but didn't fix the dryer. Last, we bought an ohm meter and tested the heating element, and discovered it did not have continuity. I had already ordered the heating element, as that was the next item to check on the list. The element was much harder to replace, because you have to take off the drum.

My dryer, a Whirlpool GEQ9800PW1, suddenly stopped producing heat. I did not have a multimeter so I rolled the dice on changing the fuse since that's a common problem. Well, it wasn't my problem. I borrowed a multimeter and learned how to use it from YouTube videos. I tested the thermostat, the heating element, another thermostat. They weren't the problem. I finally tested the thermal cutoff and it was dead. I ordered the part from Part Select, it arrived within 3 days, and is working perfectly. As for the installation process, all of the parts mentioned above are accessed from the front of the dryer, below the dryer door. There are two clips at the TOP of the panel below the dryer door. Use a screwdriver to pop them loose and remove the panel. There are also clips at the bottom of the panel. No need to mess with those. I wasted a lot of time doing that because I didn't realize the relevant clips were at the top of the panel. Once the panel is removed, you need to remove the metal piece that covers the lint trap and blower. It is held in place by three screws and pulls right off. On the right side of the dryer, you will see a hollow, metal tube with the heating element in it. The heating element can be identified easily because it's made up of coils. On the left side of this metal tube containing the heating element, you will see wires that attach to two separate items. The one in the front is the high limit thermostat. Behind that is the thermal cutoff. Only one screw holds the thermal cutoff in place. Remove the screw, detach the two wires attached to it, and simply replace with a new one. The entire metal tube can be removed from the dryer but I personally didn't find it necessary. I was fine with reaching into the dryer to remove/replace the thermal cutoff. The replacement part comes with both the thermal cutoff and a high limit thermostat. I didn't bother replacing the thermostat. This is a fast, easy job when reading the above instructions. My process was trial and error so it took me forever. Hopefully these instructions help others. I considered an aftermarket part but after some research, it's worth the $30 to get a factory part from this site.

remove back,remove both switches,replace

Popped the panel open & replaced the one that was missing with a new one!

1) Unplug dryer from wall. 2) Remove bottom panel on front of dryer below door. There are 2 screws. You will need a 1/4" nut driver. 3) Remove 2 screws (same size) holding the clip in place at the front of the element housing. Then remove clip. 4) Pull housing and element forward. Will take some twisting and angling to get it out. 5) Make a diagram showing which wires go to what terminals. Then pull wires from terminals. (Now would be a good time to remove lint and trash or in my case that bank card I lost last year from bottom of dryer.) 6) Remove screw holding coil inside housing and pull coil from housing. Use pliers and some muscle. 7) Install new coil and replace wires, housing, and panel doing this process in reverse. For internal bias thermistor, while front panel is off, find the part inside. It is toward the center near the front of the dryer. There are 2 wires and 2 screws 1/4" hex heads. Remove wires, remove screws, and replace.

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.

The repair was easy and very simple. With nut driver removed front cover. Noted the wiring set up and removed. Lifted heat tunnel up and pulled it from the case. Removed the old heating element and install new one. Reinstalled the heat tunnel reconnected the wires. Slide tunnel back into position. Replaced screw and you are done. I always pray and ask Jesus for his help and things always go well.

Unplugged unit. Took off the lower kick plate took the old element out and put the new one in. Works great.

I was afraid I had to go in from the back panel, undo a million little bolts, after pulling the whole thing out far enough to get behind the dryer. Not so! I watched the installation video. I cannot get to the 220 plug easily so I turned of the switch at the breaker box. I opened the small panel on the front of the dryer under the dryer door. Loosened one bolt on a cover guard to expose the element. Unplugged the connection to the element and easily pulled out old part. Slipped in the new part, reconnected the little plug connections, closed cover panel.! Voila! Done! My Husband was amazed that I was done & we were ready to go again & my grand kids cheered for me!! 15 minutes or less instead of hours.

Ordered the kit for my dryer. Popped off the front access panel and 4 screws later, dryer works perfectly. 28 dollars plus shipping and fixed. Great OEM parts and fast shipment from Peoria. Recommended.

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

Step 1: remove new latch from bag in which part comes. Step 2: push latch into hole where the other latch was. Step 3: enjoy having a dryer you dont have to hold closed with a folding chair.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

remove&replace