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FH code-4 minutes into cycle
remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.
Somehow a bobby pin got into the drain pump housing. When it started to drain, the pin was rammed through the housing.Extremely easy to remove and replace. No special skills needed. Whirlpool did a good job in making it idiot proof. Unpacking the part took longer than installing it. Don't be afraid to do this repair. If you own a pair of pliers and a screwdriver,you can do it.
Have to remove the front two sections of the washer and top- I had to remove the control panel too. POS kenmore gasket failed after about 2.5-3 years. Old gasket got holes in it - If you have a HE3 or HE4 model- look for it! you will get them too!!! Guaranteed.
I first had to take off the back and the top to get to the pulley and the belt. The pulley had woobled so much that it had worn out the center nad it would no longer hold to the post in the tub. It also had cut into the back of the tub about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I unscrewed the nut holding the pulley and removed it. I then took a knife and trimmed the rough edges off the back of the tub to make it smooth. I then smoothed out the end of the post that the pulley fits on so the new pulley would fit. I tightned the nut and put the belt on the motor drive shaft and Used a robo grip to hold the belt as I turned it onto the pulley. I but the back and top back on and that was it.
This washer had been faulting since it was 1 year old but it only happened 1 to 2 times a year. As the fault problem became more often, I realized it was a hardware or computer malfunction. But what was the problem? Well the problem always was a faulty flow meter. I replace the valve and the flow meter. But I tested the flow meter several times.-- I replaced the flow meter and the valve. And for once in 5 years it did not fault.
Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.
Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three screws at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.
Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.
I wasted 2 years washing clothes in mu Duet before I repaired it in just two minutes. In those 2 years we destroyed numerous articles of clothing because the missing baffle left sharp metal corners that cut holes in to so many of our clothes. The replacement baffle was easy to find on partselect.com as were installation guides. I can't believe how easy it was!
Bellow was ripped at the fold, leaking water into the casing.
Removed the top panel. Removed the control panel (one screw behind the detergent drawer). Removed the three screws that held the door latch and switch (pushed it through). Removed the spring-loaded wire that fastens the boot to the door panel(look very closely around the bellow around the opening for the door). Removed the four screws at each corner of the front panel and removed the panel (door still intact). Loosened the band clamp that holds the bellow to the tub. Removed the vent tube from the old bellow and installed on the new bellow. Installation is the reverse of the removal. One tip: when installing the spring-loaded wire around the door panel opening, use several small (padded end) spring clamps to hold the wire in place as you install the wire. If you do not, the areas that you have installed will come undone. Be sure to be careful and use padded ends so that you lessen the likelihood of puching a hole in the new bellow.
Detergent leaking under Dispenser Drawer down front of Washer
Secondary problem was bleach being siphoned from dispenser prematurely when drawer slid in. Replaced Drawer, Detergent Container and Bleach Siphon parts. Appears to have been a change in the siphon design when compared to the original factory part. 5 loads completed since replacement of these parts with no premature siphon of bleach or leakage down the front of the washer.
simple removal of few screws holding the washer panels and replacing bellow. 20 minutes to complete entire job. Kenmore mechanical washer design is very simple so all components access is very easy.
After removing the Top Cover and back cover by removing the 3 screws for the top and 10 screws on the back cover to expose the interior of the machine. Remove the rubber hose that was attached to the bottom of pressure switch. Pushed gently upward on the pressure switch until it popped out. Gently press down on the 2 small tabs on the plug and then gently pull the plug out. Placed new pressure switch in place, plugged the connector back into the switch. Also doubled checked the hose to ensure that the tubing has not rubbed a hole it from rubbing on the concrete counter balance. If yes then remove the tube from the bottom of the washer and replace with approximately 2 feet of 3/16 inner diameter/1/4 outer diameter tubing. Attach the new tubing to the bottom of the washer port and the pressure switch. Attach the new tub to the water discharge hose using tie wraps or electrical tape to ensure not to occur again.
First and foremost, I usually call a real man to come do a job like this, but after reading the repair stories, I gave it a shot. Very, very easy. Pop of the bottom panel off (three torx screws), drain the water out of the tub (if any), and just follow the directions in the box. Anyone can do this one.