Models > 11023832100 > Instructions

11023832100 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11023832100 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11023832100
76-90 of 1231
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Tub banged against the front of case during spin

  • Customer: Peter from Boca Raton FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.

unbalanced load...knocking sound.

  • Customer: Edward from Easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.

  • Customer: Kim from West Liberty OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 15 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).

WILL NOT SPIN

  • Customer: Daniel from Temple TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
THIS IS A RELATIVELY NEW WASHER AND FAILED EARLY. MY PREVIOUS WHIRLPOOL WASHER LASTED 20 YEARS WITHOUT ANY REPAIRS.
1. FIRST INQUIRED ABOUT THE SPIN PROBLEM IN PARTSELECT. MACHINE WILL NOT SPING UNLESS MANUALY FORCED THEN IT WILL TAKE OFF BUT WEAK.
2.PARTSELECT SUGGESTED A CLUTCH PROBLEM. ORDERED THE PART THAT CAME FAST. WHEN I TRIED REMOVING THE SHAFT HUB WITH A HAMMER AND CHISEL IT WILL NOT GET LOOSE SO I OPTED ORDERING THE SPECIAL WRENCH TO LOOSEN THE TUB HUB.
3.I PUT THE MACHINE ON ITS BACK AND LOOSENED THE PUMP RETAINING CLIPS. DO NOT REMOVE THE HOSES FROM THE PUMP. MOVE THE PUMP AWAY FROM THE MOTOR SHAFT. REMOVE THE MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AND SET ASIDE.
4.REMOVE THE THREE BOLTS HOLDING THE GEARBOX-MOTOR ASSEMPLY AND PULL IT OUT OF THE TUB.
5.PUT THE ASSEMBLY ON A TOWELWITH SHAFT UP AND REMOVE THE SEPARATOR WASHER FROM THE OLD CLUTCH THAT IS SITTING ON THE GEARBOX. THEN REMOVE THE C-RETAINING CLIP FROM THE SHAFT.
6.PRY OUT THE WIRE RETAINING CLIP FROM THE CLUTCH AND PULL THE OLD CLUTCH OUT OF THE SHAFT.
7.THE CLUTCH KIT I ORDERED CAME WITH A PLASTIC BRAKE TO CLUTCH CAM SO I REPLACED IT TOO, JUST REMOVE THE RETAINIG CLIP FROM THE BRAKE THAT IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TUB AND REPLACED THE PART.
8.INSTALLED THE NEW CLUTCH AND THE RETAINING CLIPS IN REVERSE ORDER. REPLACE ALL PARTS THAT CAME WITH THE KIT. THE NEW CLUTCH SPRING WAS ALREADY IN PLACE.
9.PUT THE ASSEMBLY BACK INTO THE TUB AND RE-INSTALL ALL THE OTHER ITEMS IN THE SAME ORDER. IT SPINS GOOD NOW!
10.WHILE REPLACING PARTS, METHODICALLY CLEAN ALL THE LINT FROM THE MOTOR AND FROM UNDER THE MACHINE. THE GEARBOX SHOWED SIGNS OF LEAKING OIL SO ITS A QUESTION OF COST. I LEFT IT THERE UNTIL IT FAILS THEN I'LL BUY A NEW MACHINE.

No agitation, No spin, pump OK

  • Customer: Ernest from Midlothian VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

Washer worked fine but wouldn't spin. Hot smell. I could turn tub by hand to help it get started and it would spin okay. Silver clutch cover was very hot to touch.

  • Customer: Kevin from Disputanta VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled back off machine. A real pain. Not something you have to do although once the back is off, the whole cabinet just lifts off. Idealy: Remove agitator and reatiner clip, lay washer on it's side or face, Remove electrical connector form motor, remove two hoses from pump, (motor can be remove easily from transmission if desired. It's lighter), remove three 1/2" bolts, lift transmission w/clutch assembly out. Pay attention to orientation of flat washer and clip (remove). The cluch band is indside the silver cover. Pich together with pliers to relieve tension and lift out. There are three while pads that wear away and glaze over when they get too hot from slipping. Reassemble. Ths is from memory so I hope I didn't forget anything. Time to do it this way would probably only be 45 minutes.

spin cycle was not working / poor

  • Customer: Craig from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive assembly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.

machine was out of balance

  • Customer: RUSSELL from SOUTHOLD NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the washing machine from the wall and found a broken spring on the floor. Began disassembling the unit before accessing your sight. (Later I viewed your video of the more simple dis assembly).Used your parts breakdown to identify the 6 parts I needed (3 springs and 3 retainers),and ordered them. They arrived on time and as per the video, installed them with ease and reassembled the unit. My wife is very happy. Thank you, Rusty

Crossed threaded plastic on old valve was leaking

  • Customer: David from Amity AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws on top of machine to remove the control unit out of the way. Then used large regular screw driver to pry out the two clips that hold the back of the washer tight to the top frame. This allows the back to come away from the machine enough to get the water inlet valve free. Didn't have to remove the bolts at the bottom of the back of the machine (they were pretty rusty) Just removed the single screw holding the water inlet valve in place, slid it down and away from the back cover and could fish it out to the side and disconnect the hose (with plyers) and slide off electrical clips (make a note of which clip goes to which valve.) I removed the part first so I could make sure I was ordering the right one. When the part came (very promptly by the way) it went back together easy. Only question was regarding reinstalling the wires since I didn't mark which way they went. I knew which one went on the Hot and Cold but didn't know if it mattered which clips went on each terminal. Figuring it was AC guessed it didn't matter so put it together the way the connectors seemed to want to lie naturally. Put it together making sure no hoses or wires where pinched or rubbing against sharp edges. Replaced the rubber washers in the hoses and made sure the hose connectors turned freely (they had been rusted a bit and didn't turn on the hose freely and I think this was the start of the cross threading problem) This time the hoses went back on very easily, screwed them hand tight not forcing anything at any time (DIDN"T USE PLIERS!). Tried water and no more leaks. Washer filled faster also, think this was because the screens on the water valve were plugged. I'll have to remember to take the hoses off and make sure the screens are clear every couple years or so. If you are having slow fills, suggest you check this first before tearing in to the machine.

Water in washer would continue to fill and overflow

  • Customer: Steve K. H. Chun from Redwood City CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Read on Internet to diagnose and get at part.
Luckly they sent new fill hose along with level control switch
as that was problem. Visually there was no
kink or blockage. Upon removing hose, I discovered
a slit on hose which did not allow pressure
to actuate diaphram. I installed new switch
and never thought to return as savings instead
of calling repairman was a no brainer !!!
Word of caution " never force"when removing or
installing a part. It should be easy Steve, Ca.

Two leaking hoses in my washing machine

  • Customer: Marc from Morton Grove IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Put the machine on its side. Remove old hoses and screw new ones into place. Done in under 20 minutes.

WASHER WOULD STOP IN THE SPIN AND DRAIN CYCLE

  • Customer: PAUL from HANOVER PARK IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
UNSCREWED TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE CONROL COUNSEL AND TILTED THE CONTROL COUNSEL BACK.
DISCONECTED BRASS CLIPS THAT HELD THE BACK OF THE UNIT TO THE CABINET
TILTED HE CABINET BACK TOWARD THE FRONT AND SLID IT OFF.DISCONECTED THE WIRE HARNESS FOR THE SWITCH AND UNSCREWED THE TWO SCREWS UNDER THE LID AND TOOK THE SWITCH OUT REPLACED THE SWITCH PUT THE SCREWES BACK THAT HELD THE SWITCH IN PLACE TILTED THE CABINET BACK ND SLIDE IT BACK ON REFASTENED HE BRASS CLIPS TILD THE CONTROL COUNSEL BAK REPLACED THE SCREWS THE HOLE REPAIR TOOK ABOUT 30 MINUTES FAIRLY EASY TO DO WITH JUST A FLAT HEAD AND PHILIPS SCREW DRIVER

Washer basket off-center and wobbling during spin cycle

  • Customer: Craig from Woodland Hills UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.

Washer would not spin a full load.

  • Customer: Ralph from Newbury Park CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
!. Removed agitator from inside
2.Removed outside cabinet
3 Removed pump, motor, and transmission.
4. Slid the entire drive unit out of the tub from the bottom
5. Removed the clutch assy. and installed new.
6. Reverseed the procedure to re-assemble.

Washing machine shakes violently during spin cycle

  • Customer: James from Asheville NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Removed four screws that hold the top control panel to the base and hung over the back panel in order to remove the main wrap-around body of the machine. Took off top plastic ring fastened to side of tub then removed old Balance ring. Installed new balance ring. Unfortunately, this did NOT fix the problem. This was a suggestion from Justanswer.com and failed miserably. Does anybody know how to fix this problem? And it's not the springs or the little plastic shims around the base OR the cross coupling to the motor...
All Instructions for the 11023832100
76-90 of 1231