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Models > 11023832100 > Instructions

11023832100 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11023832100 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11023832100
106-120 of 1,289
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broken lid switch

  • Customer: Gary from Stuart, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the machine.
Removed the back panel.
Located the switch, removing it and then following the wire to the plug, unplugging it.
replaced with new switch, plugged it in and replaced the back panel.
Removing and putting the back panel back was the hardest part.

Lid Switch Screw Mounts Broke

  • Customer: Leo from Compton, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I had to unscrew 2 screws that held the control panel, then remove the 2 end caps, remove 2 screws that held the control panel to the washing machine. I then lifted the control panel and leaned the lower case forward. All this to get access to the ground screw for the lid mount. It sounds like a lot, but actually it was quite simple. I replaced the old switch with a new one and put everything back together just like new. No extra screws or parts that I could not remember where they came from. Thanks Parts Select. Reading the comments from others helped me to realize that I could do the work without worry. The only problem I had was ordering the correct part. That did not happen until I got the correct part number from the old part.

Washing machine shakes violently during spin cycle

  • Customer: James from Asheville, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
Removed four screws that hold the top control panel to the base and hung over the back panel in order to remove the main wrap-around body of the machine. Took off top plastic ring fastened to side of tub then removed old Balance ring. Installed new balance ring. Unfortunately, this did NOT fix the problem. This was a suggestion from Justanswer.com and failed miserably. Does anybody know how to fix this problem? And it's not the springs or the little plastic shims around the base OR the cross coupling to the motor...

Washer Would Stop In The Spin And Drain Cycle

  • Customer: PAUL from HANOVER PARK, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed two screws that hold the conrol counsel and tilted the control counsel back. Disconected brass clips that held the back of the unit to the cabinet tilted he cabinet back toward the front and slid it off. Disconected the wire harness for the switch and unscrewed the two screws under the lid and took the switch out replaced the switch put the screwes back that held the switch in place tilted the cabinet back nd slide it back on refastened he brass clips tild the control counsel bak replaced the screws the hole repair took about 30 minutes fairly easy to do with just a flat head and philips screw driver

Cracked drain tube.

  • Customer: Eric from Grand Haven, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old tube and replaced with new version. Replacement slightly different than original since the new part included a feature that appears to prevent the problem. New part still fit and is operating well so far.

Washer would sometimes not go into spin cycle. Opening and closing lid would put it into spin.

  • Customer: Donald from Toopeka, KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed end caps on control panel, removed two screws, lifted the control panel and rolled it back out of the way.
Undid clips and wire connection and pulled the cabinet off. Replaced the switch and put everything back together.
Easy job but helps to have two people to get the cabinet back on right.

washer not draining

  • Customer: maria from san Marcos, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
but switch fixed

tub would not spin....burning smell

  • Customer: John from Elm Mott, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

Coupling on Whirlpool Washer gave out

  • Customer: Ronny from Santa Monica, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The coupling, made of plastic and rubber, on our Whirlpool washer gave out. Done the same repair nine years ago and knew what to do. Here is a short summery:

1. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the control panel on top of the machine in place

2. unscrew the screws that connect the housing with the back panel

3. pop the 2 clips under the control panel to release the back panel

4. with the back panel loose disconnect everything
that is pushed, screwed or clamped on and take the back panel off (don't worry about remembering where things go, everything can go only one way together again)

5. slightly lift the housing of the washer in the back to remove, that gives you access to the coupling in front of the machine

6. I personally like to put the washer on its back and do the repair that way. However, if you want to
leave it standing that is gets you there too.

7. take the screws out of the brackets that hold the pump (the thing with the two hoses attached to it)
in place and snap off the brackets; lift up the pump and put aside

8. you can now remove the broken coupling

9. check for any fragments and clean off what needs to be cleaned

10. replace the coupling

11. reverse the order of steps 1 to 7; make sure that the all electrical connections and hoses are connected!

12. test

Broken water inlet syphon combined with missing feet was causing water to spill out of the washer

  • Customer: Randy from Atlanta, GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 13 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the back of the washer, removed the old water inlet syphon, replaced it with the new one, and, with some difficulty, replaced the back of the washer, reattaching all of the parts to it.

shaking on spin cycle

  • Customer: Paul from Milwaukie, OR
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the outside body of washer. Used 1/2 plywood between drum and wear pads to make space to pry out pads with screwdriver. Replaced suspension springs and tub spring (use waterproof grease on end of springs. Put washer back together and tested. Problem solved washer not walking all over floor anymore. Thanks for you help.

Loud Screeching noise when draining water

  • Customer: Steven from Port Saint Lucie, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.

Washer not agitating

  • Customer: Keith from Erie, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I looked for a youtube video on how to repair the lid switch. The video was very good but was filmed in a perfect world. My washer sits in a somewhat confined area so getting the outside skin put back perfectly was a bit tricky.

Both outside door handles turned very beige

  • Customer: Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

slow or no spin

  • Customer: Steven from Wausau, WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First read up on what others did and tried to find free repair manual with little luck. Called repairman, they thought whole transmission was shot- would have been $70 just to have them look- forget it. Getting it apart: popped off the two console cosmetic panels to get to a screw on each side from the top. Lifted off console, levered and squeezed retaining clips. Unhooked two connectors and overflow tubing? Shell pulled off easily, getting back on after I was all done made me wonder if it was a good choice. In the end yes- allowed me to clean inside surfaces of both tubs to remove grime and rust. There are many stories on the actual clutch replacement, so won't go into too much detail but some lessons learned. Keep track of the way all the plastic aggitator pieces go in, plus the washers and clips along the way. Deep well 1/2" I think socket for the tub, it's litely spring loaded so look before you set it down. Punching off the nut on the tub worried me, but it was no big deal. Loosens and tightens the normal directions, no positive tight stop, just compression so pay attention to how tight and hard you pounded to get it off. Drain the water from the inner tub before getting too far. I took the four springs off and removed both tubs to clean. No more complaining about brown spots on clothes. Get the whole clutch kit, not just the band, even though it's probably just the band worn out. The plastic clutch engaging piece will probably be fatigued. The motor etc is heavy, and buffered it's drop with rags. tip on side when putting it back, because its a bear to try to lift up. I lightly greased some moving parts, just not much as to not cause band grip problems. The wire retaining clip is tricky- I put the hook end in first, used pliers to try and compress, and screwdriver to push down and in. The whole things wants to spin while you do this, but when it finally goes, it stays. I was concerned about the location of the band spring in relation to it's actuator when putting it together, but it turned out if you put it anywhere where the clutch is free to spin, it will engage normally. The top lid has two rubber bumpers, one fell off and landed on the front bottom corner of the cover which didn't help reinstallaion until my 8year old noticed it! Took a number of tries but finally got the four guides from the frame into the cover. I tried bringing it in level, front tipped sligthly up, front tipped slightly down; in the end I won't be much help, it just finally went. It wasn't as easy as most people said it would be, but my back hurt and I had kids "help", and it took just under two hours. Works amazingly well now. Parts arrived Two days after ordering, with no expiditing!
All Instructions for the 11023832100
106-120 of 1,289