11018702790 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Took off softener dispenser, pried off top of agitator, removed bolt from top of agitator.

Then pulled out the agitator assembly for easier access.

Used screwdriver to brake small plastic keepers holding secondary agitator ratchet clutch to the secondary agitator.

Assembled and inserted new ratchet mechanism in the top of the agitator, making sure 4 small square pegs protruding from the end of the new assembly fully entered into mating holes on the secondary agitator.

Placed the agitator back on the agitator post and installed and secured bolt. Replaced cap and installed softener dispenser.

diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

just like video showed really helpfull

I did the repairs after watching a few videos on this web site and it covered everything I needed. Went well and the parts were perfect.

I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

The dispenser ring was loose due to the broken plastic dispenser. Replacement was too easy.
Removed the old, and snapped the new one in place. Took all of 1 minute. Now I'm back up and running

Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

There was a hole in the tube that connects to the water level pressure switch...so we could have just bought a new tube but we replaced the whole thing anyways. This job was easy up until we had to take the hose out and we had to remove the back cover. But works great now =-)

Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.

Popped the cap off the agitator (pocket Knife) Look down in the center of the agitator. I saw I needed a 7/16 socket, 6" extention and ratchet. I used 1/4" drive. I took the retaining bolt out and lifted the upper portion of the agitator off of the iower portion and out of the tub. Set the part I took out on the dryer. I pulled the cone shaped part that houses the 4 cogs pieces out of the center of the upper agitator part. Once the coned shaped part was out, turned it upside down and placed it on the closed washing machine lid, then again used my pocket knife to lift the plastic retaining ring that securely holds the 4 cogs in place upward on the cone as to remove and replace the 4 worn out cogs with the new ones purchased in a repair kit. Pay close attention the direction the old cogs are facing, so the new ones go back in the same facing direction. It can be extremely easy to install the new ones backwards. I have to say at this point, I was quite disappointed with the retrofit repair kit I purchased. The new cone part the holds the cogs and goes down into the center of the upper agitator wouldn't allow the bolt that locks the whole agitator to the shaft to line up straight and wanted the bolt to "cross" thread into the main shaft. I took it all apart again and reused the original coned shaped part that came with the machine. I should have purchased just the 4 cogs for considerably less money. Reassembled the cone part and put it back together. Reinstalled the upper agitator in reverse order of removing it. Turned on the washer and it works like it's supposed to once again. Hope this helps the next person.

Basically I followed the great instructions provided on the Part Select webpages. I would consider myself to have more common sense than mechanical skill. I didn't want to have to keep going back to purchase more parts so I decided to buy the motor coupler (under $5), new clutch assembly (Under $30), new motor (under $160). The shaft on the original motor wore down to a cylindrical shape which should have been more of a rectangular shape to fit precisely into the motor coupler and provide the grip strength for the washer tub to spin. Usually the no spin problem is linked to a faulty motor coupler. I was glad that I had to removed the motor to reach the motor coupler because in my case the coupler had not failed. That is when I saw the motor shaft had worn. Since I had all the new parts I replaced them all and since 6/13/19 the washer is running like new. Oh, the problem was most likely caused by someone in my family "overloading" the wash machine one too many times over 11 years. Guy's / Gal's you can do this and save yourself from buying a new washer for between $850 - $1,200. My repair expense was under $240 including tax and next day delivery of my parts. Thanks Part Select !!!! Neil

Washer is 29 years old. Found that tub spring hooks into a simple (non-reinforced) hole in the base frame, and it had worn the hole through through the edge of the frame (key hole style). Due to age and low cost of parts, ordered all suspension springs, brackets, & pads. Once they arrived, took the tubs out (first time for that), found that the suspension pads looked fine, but the wear pads showed a lot of wear and the front one was snapped in the middle, perhaps an after effect of the spring failure. From my lack of attention, initially tried to get front pad into the wrong set of holes, a bad fit; corrected. Simply drilled a near-by hole in the base frame for the tub spring.

While the tubs were out, took them outside and scrubbed them clean. Also cleaned agitator parts using bottle brushes. Followed the PartSelect videos and owner comments for procedures, methods. Found that some miss some important info, but if you watch others you can combine the info to find what you need re disassembly/assembly.

At one point while attempting to remove the outer tub, did not realize that the screw that holds the rear spring bracket to the tub also holds the tub to the suspension plate.

Took me most of a day for the whole process, and I ended up with pulled/spasmic muscles from all the bending over, mostly from cleaning parts I think. Very helpful to have the parts breakout drawings, videos, others' experience.