271100-1-S-GE-WH1X2727          -Tub Dampening Strap
271100-1-S-GE-WH1X2727          -Tub Dampening Strap 271100-2-S-GE-WH1X2727          -Tub Dampening Strap http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00110774i02.gif

Tub Dampening Strap

PartSelect Number PS271100

Appliance would take 4 straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet. Sold individually.

This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Shakes and moves.
  • Noisy.
  • Leaking.
  • Pumps but will not spin.
  • Will not agitate.
  • Compare At

    $4.80
  • You Save

    $.80
  • Your Price

    $4.00
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 29 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 29
 

193 of 202 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Socket set
Customer: molly from laguna niguel, CA

Broken dampening strap and loose agitator

first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u remove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?

31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Michael from Alexandria, IN

Pump and motor assembly began leaking and then seized.

First I removed the front panel by prying it forward with a Screw driver away from the side panels at the top (wrap a shop rag around the Screw driver to keep from scratching the paint). Once you have the panel pried loose at the top ... lean it forward until you can lift it off the tab type hooks at the bottom.
I next unplugged the wires from the motor. The orginal motor had three wires ... two on top and one on the left side. The one on the side is a ground wire for the open frame motor. The replacement motor is sealed and does not require this wire. Just leave it unplugged when the new one is installed.
Next I removed the inlet hose that attaches to the back of the pump. Remove it by loosening the hose clamp and removing it from the bottom of the tub, leaving it attached to the back of the pump. It is much easier to remove and transfer to the new pump once it is out rather than fight with the spring type clamp on the back of the pump in the close quarters inside the machine.
Next I removed the outlet hose from the top of the pump. Squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up and off the pump.
Now I just used a Socket to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the inside front of the machine and removed the assembly.
I now removed the inlet hose from the back of the old pump. Just squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up the hose and off the pump. Transfer the hose to the back of the new pump reusing the same clamp.
I now bolted the assembly back into the machine, reattached the outlet hose to the pump, and then reattached inlet hose to the bottom of the tub. All that was left to do was plug in the two wires to the top front of the pump motor (as I mentioned earlier, leave the side wire from the old pump unplugged as it is not needed on the new one). I then ran the machine for a few moments with the front off to check for any leaks and then put the front panel back on.
The whole replacement cost about $50 and took barely 15 min. from start to finish. The machine now works perfectly.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?

25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: Franklin A from Elk Grove, CA

Loud banging noise

Removed the front cover of the washer by sliding a screw driver to release the clips. Loosened the 4 nuts that held the drivebelt motor pushed the motor back to release the drive belt. Replaced the drive belt, pulled motor until drive belt was snug and tighted the 4 bolts. At the same time, I replaced the 4 tub dampening straps located at the top of the tub and now the unit is just like new.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?

25 of 38 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Jarid from Louisville, KY

Washing machine would not balance on spin cycle

I replaced the work tub dampening strap because that what everyone recommended to replace for this problem. However the purpose of these straps is to dampen the agitation cycle and they have nothing to with the spin cycle at all. the balance ring assembly had been rubbing on the outer tub so I decided to replace it because of a "balance issue". However the ring is liquid with baffles to counter balance the load as it spins and it still had the liquid inside of it so it was actual not needed. What fixed my issue was I found a bolt laying at the bottom of the washer. This bolt was one of the 4 bolts that hold the outer tub to the metal support. When it feel out the tub was only held in at 3 points not the needed 4. This allowed it to rock a bit in the high speed spin and you thought it was going to fly into a 1000 pieces. I replaced the bolt and other parts since I had paid for them and everything works great now.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?

17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: james from sidney, OH

Washer loss balance

went very well thank you

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?

1-5 of 29