2077427-1-S-Whirlpool-71001872-Electronic Clock Control
2077427-1-S-Whirlpool-71001872-Electronic Clock Control 2077427-2-S-Whirlpool-71001872-Electronic Clock Control 2077427-3-S-Whirlpool-71001872-Electronic Clock Control http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/Maytag_Thumb/52589.gif

Electronic Clock Control

PartSelect Number PS2077427

This part controls the functions of your oven such as bake, broil, timed bake and the clock.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will not program.
  • Compare At

    $472.26
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    $78.71
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    $393.55
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.2 / 5.0, 37 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 37
 

21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Electronic Clock Control

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set

CustomerGregory from Ann Arbor, MI

Dim display

This is a Jenn-Air double oven. Turned off circuit breaker to the oven. Removed 7 screws that hold the top panel in place. Removed 3 cable/connectors from the clock module so panel can be removed from oven and placed on a table. Unscrew 4 hex head screws attaching clock module to front panel. Press on two tabs and remove circuit board from plastic frame. Replace with new board reversing dis-assembly sequence.

After examining the old board I discovered that the 470 microfarad aluminum electrolytic capacitor (in the corner) was badly deformed. I replaced this. Now I have a spare board. I believe that the failure (common in Jenn-Air ovens) starts with a transient on the power line (it did with mine). This damages the capacitor which progressively gets worse. This capacitor probably acts as a low pass filter on the power supply for the display. If any of you are into electronics, I would suggest wiring a zener diode across the capacitor to suppress transients. I wish the Jenn-Air engineers had put this in the design. It would have avoided a lot of costly repairs and saved them the bad reputation that they have as a result of this board failing over and over again.

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16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Electronic Clock Control

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set

CustomerDon from Moon Township, PA

Clock assembly went so dim we could not read it.

On the front panel I removed 3 screws on top and 4 screws under the bottom. Pulled the panel down to expose the computer board, removed 4 hex head screws and disconnected 2 plugs and 1 ribbon connecter. I reversed the process and used the awl to locate the screw holes and finshed in 23 minutes and saved $ 89.00.

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11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Electronic Clock Control

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerDennis from Grapevine, TX

Oven display was out

This repair is sooo easy! First I down loaded the service manual (free pdf) from Maytag as they make this appliance. They give all of the voltages for the J1 and J2 plugs. I checked those to be sure I was getting power to the board. I did not want to lay out close to $200 and then discover that the problem was elsewhere. All voltages on the J1 and J2 plugs were good. Next I ordered the clock and when it came in it may have taken me 5 minutes to replace the old board with the new one. Including time to go out to the garage and turn the power off and on. Also beware that the ribbon cable attaches to the clock with a compression type connector. The connector does not separate with the ribbon. Simply press on the two tabs on either side and then pull the ribbon from the connector. Reverse to reassemble.

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7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Electronic Clock Control

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerGuy from Scottsdale, AZ

Oven display became gradually almost totally dim in a couple of weeks

Pulled the breaker supplying power to the oven to OFF.
Removed four screws at the bottom of the control panel assembly above the top oven door (open the top oven door to access these screws). Lifted this control panel upwards to unhook it from a metal bracket. In my case, cabinet doors just above the control panel made this operation difficult.
Tilted the panel down. At this point, cables prevent complete removal of the control panel: The electronic clock assembly is attached with four screws inside this panel and connects to electrical equipment above the oven with two cables.
Unplugged these two cables. Their connectors must be unlatched by prying with a screw driver in the right place.
Once these cables were disconnected, the control panel could be removed from the oven area.
Disconnected the ribbon cable connecting the switches on the control panel to the clock assembly. That was the tricky part. Contrary to what I thought, this ribbon cable was not terminated by a connector but just snapped in the connector mounted on the clock assembly. After some fumbling, found that I had to depress both edges of the connector which allowed lifting up one part. Then the ribbon cable could be bent slightly to disengage two holes in the ribbon from nubs in the connector assembly and pull out the ribbon.
Removed old clock assembly by removing the four screws.
Installed the new assembly with the four screws.
Connected the two cables to the new clock assembly.
Reinstalled the control panel with the new clock assembly reconnecting the two cable connectors and by sliding the control panel down over the metal plate attached to the top of the oven.
Fastened the panel with the four screws.
Turned the circuit breaker back on.

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5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerPage from Concord, MA

Display was unreadable and doors didn't close

NOTE: I had a repair person try to fix the door problem and he only replaced the HINGES. You need to replace both the HINGES and the HINGE RECEPTACLES to fix the door problem.

INSTALLING the clock assembly:

First I went to the electrical breaker box and turned off the power to my double oven. Then I removed the screws that hold the oven to the wall and pulled the oven out about 5 inches. I removed the cover for the controls at the top of the oven - the clock assembly is attached to the cover - several connectors need to be unplugged to remove the cover. I put the cover on my counter and unscrewed the four screws (with nutdriver) that hold the clock in place. I unclipped the control cable (flat with embedded wires) and took out the old clock. I reversed these steps to put in the new clock. I then held the cover up to the oven and reconnected the connectors to the rest of the oven, I hooked the cover back in place.

Replacing the hinge receptacles:
I opened the oven doors and removed the hinge covers (just over the hinge itself that keep the door from falling off) and lifted the doors off of the oven. Next went to the side of the oven and removed all the lag screws that attach the hinge receptacles to the oven body (you may need to remove the trim around the oven in the process as they may be too hard to get out otherwise). I put each of the four new hinge receptacles back in place and screwed in all the screws I took out before. I put the oven doors back on and replaced the hinge covers.

The oven works perfectly!! Hurray!

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