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PartSelect Number PS2076107
This is a push-and-turn switch. This kit includes all necessary hardware to install the part. Switch comes with a D-shaped shaft.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This surface burner infinite control switch is just over two inches long. It's shaft is one inch long, and is double flat. This switch is palnut mounted and the 'off'position is at the top.
We love our Jenn-Air electric range that we have owned since 1983 and couldn't get parts from where we bought it recently. We called around to Sears and other appliance dealers and they couldn't help us. We found your company searching on the internet and we are very much pleased with your parts listing and your great service. We will be back. Jody and Mike Hayden, Eden, Vt.
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Locate and open appropriate breaker to kill power to the range. (very important if you intend to see tomorrow).Pull off the control knob.Remove 2 screws that hold in control pannel.Lift out the control pannel to the extent that the wires will let you. (2-3 inches)Remove the nut that holds the switch/controller in the pannel. Remove the wires one at a time and reconnect them to the new switch. Make sure to connect them the same way on the new switch.Re-install the switch in the pannel.Re-install the pannel in the stove.Close breaker and test burner contol.
Well, since the circuit breaker blew when the fan switch burned out, I was hoping to get a new counter-top range out of this. But, no such luck. My son opened up the control module (2 screws under the fan grill) and found the problem. Then I decided that if I needed to replace ONE part, I'd replace ALL of the parts that didn't work and were worn out. First I turned off the breaker all the way, then, since the module was open anyway (it pulls out about 2 inches), I only had to remove the old fan switch using the socket set, and replace it, wire-for-wire with the new one. The flange needed to be filed down a bit because it was wider than the original, but not a problem to do. I had to use the original nuts to hold in the new one. The new ones are smaller. Just used the socket set in reverse ....done!The burner switch and knobs were a little more of a problem but only because ordering them didn't follow the rules...I needed series 3 parts, even though I had a "Run 01" range top. With the help of a very nice customer service rep, I got the correct parts the next day and replaced the burner swich the same way...used a socket set to loosen and remove the old switch and connected the new one wire-for-wire, and again needed to use the original washer and nut. (The wrong model that I initially received had a new washer and nut in the bag with the switch.) But, again, no problem. The control knobs just pull off and push on...simple. Now that I had a nearly new range top, I spent another 2 hours REALLY cleaning it (Dawn Power Dissolver is GREAT!). Looks almost like new! I guess I won't be getting a new range top for another 22 years now.....
following the directions in the package and on-line, this repair was easier than i could have imagined. changing out these two parts took less than 15 minutes.
I unplugged the range top power cord. I used a phillips screw driver and crescent wrench to remove the old range top switches. I disconnected the wires from the switches. I reconnected the wires to the new switches and installed the switches into the range top switch panel. This took about one hour. I plugged in the power cord. The range top works great and looks great with the new switches.
Shut off the breaker! Removed down draft grill. Removed two phillips head screws and lifited switch plate out. Removed switches (2) and made wiring diagram as I went. Looked up Jenn-Air on line and ordered parts. Lost wirihng diagram in the process but still had two switches wired . Replaced all four switches. Everything working great. However while I was waiting on switches to arrive, somebody at the house was fooling with the switch plate and broke the on red indicater lens so now I'm ordering that. Oh well....
We unscrewed the top plate, unscrewed the top of the switch removed the ballast underneath and it worked. I was so glad to be able to still get the parts.
1st-turned off breaker, 2nd- took out the two screws that hold the control panel and lifted it up so I could remove the surface unit switch,3rd- removed wires from old switch and securing nut and removed old switch,4th- installed new switch and plugged in wires, then turned on breaker to see if burner would work and it did. 5th-turned off breaker again and removed the wires from the fan switch and used nut driver to remove retainer nuts,6th-installed new fan switch and plugged in wires, 7th- put control console back in place and the two screws that hold it in place. Turned breaker back on and everything worked.Didn't use the burner receptacle or burner.
Turned off electricity at the circuit box. Removed four screws from panel cover that housed the switch. disconected the wires from the old switch and replaced the old switch with the new one reconected the wires put the panel cover back on. voila done.
I recently purchased an older home. The cooktop is aged and has not been properly maintained. With the parts I ordered from parts select I was able to bring my cooktop back to almost new! I am very pleased with the quick service parts select provided!
First pulled the two screws holding the control with the switches. Then I unscrewed the nut holding the 6" burner switch and disconnected the wires on the switch and replaced the switch with the new one. Replaced the control unit in the range top and tested the repair.
Got a no-name tailor-it-yourself replacement switch from a San Jose, CA appliance parts store; but the switch was so cheaply made that it fell apart when I tested it.Got a RobertShaw part from PartSelect and now the burner works perfectly.
Turned off power at breaker. Removed screws holding control knobs in position. Removed knob and unscrewed nut holding switch in place. Noted wire positions and undid connections. Connected wires to new unit. Replaced nut and screws and control knob. Restored power and checked operation. You can do this. Don't call an electrician.
removed two screws thenpulled element up unpluged wires
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires and replaced the connections in sequence. It was easy. BUT, be sure the circuit breaker is disconnected if you want to enjoy the fruits of your labor. I figure I saved about $1100 by not having to buy a new stove top and I now have an almost new one. The cook appreciates it too.
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