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PartSelect Number PS2003560
This kit contains two glide brackets and four screws.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Pulled off the lower panel with 5/16 socket.Pulled off the door assembly by removing the two screws at the bottom of the door assembly. I pulled down a little and then out. be carefull of the wires. Other posts said to remove. The wires were long enough I did not have to remove them. I just leaned it against the wall. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front piece in.pulled it off replaced brackets , installed self adhesive felt(stuck good) and then glides. Mine were thin but not the problem. I then reached under the drum and released the belt from the tensioner. I then pulled the whole drum out.This is the time to vacum out good. I could get to the rear rollers very easy. The left roller was shot and the shaft half wore into(the problem). I pulled off the two screws holding the roller support. Normally You have to remove the wheel with snap ring pliers first to remove the support. In this case snap ring long gone. Replaced support shaft, installed thrust washers and roller with grease for both sides. The right support shaft was still good. Removed tensioner pulley and inspected. It was just as good as the new one. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled. Put new belt on the tub and slid it back in. Be carefull to get the belt on the proper side of the tensioner. I then installed the front supprt in place to support the tub with the 4 screws. Spun the tub(felt good) then reached under and reinstalled belt to motor and tensioner. Spun again to check for belt alignment. (Check) Reinstalled door an lower panel. Test Quiet Sounds like new. Very easy! I hope this helps someone just as the other post has helped me. Blessings to all.
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I removed the lower front panel, which is held in place by two screws at the very bottom. I found pieces of the worn out brackets in the bottom of dryer. I then located damaged brackets bolted under front of drum at about 4&8 oclock. each bracket is held in place by two small bolts from the back side. The bolts for the new brackets go back in from the front, which eliminated the problem of stripped out holes. It is helpful if someone can reach indryer and hold up front of drum while you are starting bolts in brackets, I found that the kid standing closest worked great. The exploded view parts list was great for finding what I needed. My old dryer works great again and it is as quiet as a new one. This was $24.00 that was very well spent.
Removed bottom front panel by two screws. glide brackets at about 8 and 4 o'clock positions, with screws coming in from the back. The replacement glide bracket and two drum glide will be needed. I drilled out the screw holes and used the original screws because replacement screws were too short and the screws go in from the front on the replacement glide bracket. You will need to slightly raise the front of the drum to install the glide brackets correctly. the reinstall the front cover.
I opened new parts and stcuk a felt pad on each glider and put one of my 10 lb. weights on it for about 1/2 hour to help it stay in place.Then removed top panel and then the front..There are three phillips screws that hold the lint catcher in place inside the barrell. Then remove the 4 total bolts to remove Glide Brackets.Mine was so worn down that the barrel had rubbed alomost all the way through a bracket. Once felt pad was firmly set, i attached glider into bracket and installed them.Put everything back in place and started up..and it was running and sounding like new...i paid 27.00 for parts and saved big time compared to what a service shop would have charged me. The shipping was super fast and with my wife and i having 9 children in the house it was a life saver for us.
I removed the bottom panel, then the larger front panel that includes the door. After that, removed the top 2 screws so that the top would swing up (but not lift off). After that, I removed the front "bulkhead", and the drum. Then it was just a short matter of sweeping everything out, and replacing the parts one by one. Most came off with a socket, or snap ring pliers. Pretty obvious at this point...Be sure to label any wires - I removed 5 wires all total, and wrote down the colors and where they went.It's great to have help when working with the drum. BTW, you CAN replace the belt without taking out the drum, but you better have strong fingers to move the belt tensioner and slip the belt on it - all with one hand. I did it, but that was the least "fun" part....
front cover then lint basket replace brackets and shoes
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