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PartSelect Number PS11738945
This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I removed the front panel. I then lifted off the top of the washer to gain access to the injector valve and nozzle. Then I unscrewed the retaining clips on the hoses joining the injector valve and nozzle. I separated the hoses from the injector valve/nozzle assembly. I then replaced the injector valve/nozzle assembly with replacement parts and reassenbled.
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watched the video on the site and went at it. lol Repair was fast and easy , almost 30 yrs old and still washing like a charm! Mite be the last one made in America !!!!! Too bad!Thanks for the help and will def recommend the site to friends. I actually got it from a friend
Noticed small pool of water on left side. Diagnosed it was injector tube. Ordered parts. Removed front panel by removing two phillips screws and then pushed down to disengage spring clips. Used nutdriver to remover two bolts holding top cover and then undid bleach dispenser hose.Lifted top cover and removed clamps holding injector and fill. Replaced using 1 1/16" Stainless steel screw clamps.THIS WAS THE FIRST REPAIR EVER ON THIS WASHER!! SIMPLY AMAZING PERFORMANCE. STILL SPINS AT HIGH RPM AND IS QUIET. Bought for my folks as a gift in 1979.This is the reason I bought the last Maytag top loaders made in '05. Also had another one 24 years with only one repair.Parts Select, thank you! Parts arrived in three days.
After reviewing the diagrams and instructions on your site, I unscrewed and removed the cover to the washing machine. I located the source of the leak and replaced the aged parts. I put everything back together and voila, no more leak. Thanks!
removed front panel, lifted top of washer and tilted back,pulled black fill hose off clear plastic vent,pulled worn retainer out and put new one in.
I removed the front panel and discovered the general area of the leak. Raised the top and found the injector valve had a hole in it. Removed the injector valve by removing the collar closest to the front of the washer. Searched the internet and found the PartSelect website. To my delight, not only was I able to order the part on a 27 year old washing machine, but there was also a 10 minute video on how to replace the part!! Although my wife was not terribly interested, I kept telling her how cool it was that there was a video showing how to replace this part. I think she was hoping this leak meant a new washing machine. Anyway, part replaced following the directions in the video and the old washer is fully functional again. Thanks for the awesome website!!
Removed front panel ( 2 swrews). Turned off water to washer. Unplugged power cord. Removed two screws holding down top of washer. Located source of leak. It was the injector valve. Removed hose clamps. Removed defective injector valve (2 parts). Installed now injector valve (2 parts) as shown in video. Tightened hose clamps. Replaced top cover and front panel. Done
Repair was a cinch, following this great video: http://www.partselect.com/PS2019175-Whirlpool-216201-Rubber-Injector-Valve.htm?SourceCode=1&SearchTerm=a712&ModelNum=a712#RepairVideo
I opened up the front panel of the washing machine and noticed that water was leaking from a hose along the top left of the machine. I ordered a new plastic injector nozzle and rubber injector valve. The parts arrived in 2 days. Switchout of the parts took less than 5 minutes. Tested it out; the leak was gone. Total cost $22.62. Money well spent!
Followed repair guidance provided on website: 1) Removed front panel of washing machine by removing two phillips-head screws (bottom front of machine) and lifting front panel from bottom. 2)Removed two hex-head from front corners of top panel. 3) lift front panel to gain access to Injector Valve and Nozzle. 4) Removed hose clamp, removed hose, removed old valve and nozzle. 5) Replaced components in reverse order.
First removed front to see approximately where the leak was - left side from the front. Parts arrived quickly. Removed top and swung up to the left side (not the back). Video was very helpful at showing how to replace valve and nozzle. The old valve did indeed have a hole in it and the injection had some perished rubber slime. Closed back up. Hit snag - the top loader door latch was not engaging preventing the machine operating. Hmm. Opened up again and with flashlight located sound of buzzing relay (being careful since the machine was powered) Noticed a wire was caught up in the relay. Disconected power. Re-sited wire and used a twist to hold to other wires to keep it out of the way of the relay. Closed back up. Everything fine. So glad to keep my 24 yr old machine going! Amazing that this was the first time it had ever been moved and opened up. Moving and cleaning was be far the longest part of the whole operation. Great site.
I opened up the washer on the front side and then the top side. I pulled out the old rubber injector valve on the left hand side and replaced it with a new one. Simple.
My cousin scavaged the same part from his old Maytag. It is like a rubber sleeve going over the plastic injector nozzle.The new part is to replace the one my cousin gave me. Note:the new one has a thicker and stiffer rubber wall. Until he repairs his Maytag, I won't know if the new rubber valve model (that is thicker) will let water through it into the washing machine. To repair, used screwdriver to remove screws at bottom front panel. Then used socket wrench to remove the bolts (on front left and right side) of the washer top. This allow the top to be lifted and tilted back towards the control panel; and then get easy access to the rubber injector valve. Screwdriver to remove clamp and install easily. (I found out it was the valve broken by turning on the machine and watching the water squirt into the air). No leak now (using my cousin's old Maytag rubber valve). The value bought was thicker rubber, probably to prevent the same "blowout" that my old Maytag valve had.
The hardest part and most time consuming was opening the machine the first time due to rusty bolts. After using WD-40 to loosen the bolts it was very easy to find the leak. I ordered the parts on Sat. received them on Tues A.M. Including opening the machine again replacing the parts with the new ones and putting it back together, it took less than 30 mins. Please Note: I am a woman and except for the orginal opening when my son helped with the rusty bolts I did this myself. EASY EASY EASY!
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