ZRRSC8050E Amana Range - Instructions

First I turned off the circuit breaker on the house electricity panel. I removed the two screws that held the element in place in the oven. There were two wires connected to the element by spade plugs that were free floating in a fiberglass pad. I reconnected the spade plugs and put the element back in place and put back in the two screws. This procedure had I known what I was doing could have been done with the stove in place and would take no more than 5 to 10 minutes. Having no experience at this, I had pulled the stove out into the room and also removed the back cover which turned out to be unnecessary. I put everything back in place and held my breath and turned on the circuit breaker. Voila! It worked!

Really easy but in this model there are 2 versions of the sensor, male and female. The website didn't have any place to see that. So the first sensor that came was male but we needed the other. After calling they sent me a return form and sent the new part (which was actually much cheaper) overnight and it went in very quickly. Would check this out again when anything went wrong. they are great folks to work with.

My husband replaced the bake element in moments. We couldn't get the broken light out of the socket because we couldn't locate our needle nose pliers. After a few days I finally got tired waiting and found a small pair of pliers in the house and got the remains of the bulb out and screwed it in, and plugged it in and we're in business!
Never wait for a man to do what you can do yourself!
I was so pleased that ordering the parts on-line was so easy and I didn't have an expensive repair bill to pay!

After trying for many years to buy the "cheap" drip pans in the store, "They never fit right", I decided to order the correct drip bowls. Now my stove top looks brand new, and my coil elements fit the proper way.

I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

easy to put in

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

un-screwed 2 scrws and pulled out the old one and pulled off the 2 wires put the new one on the floor of the oven and hooked-up the 2 wires and pushed it in the back wall and replaced the 2 screws! done maybe 5 minutes

First turn off the electric breaker, and if necessary mark it or lock it so it will not be turned on while working on the unit.
I raised the glass stove top (it is hinged in the back), and propped it up with a piece of wood.
Removing the control requires the removal of a metal shield along with several mounting screws.
several wires needed to be removed, so I drew a diagram to make sure they all went back on the same terminals.
Reverse the order in replacing the control, and be ready for another 3 to 5 years of service.
This control is a universal part used on many different brands of ranges. Make sure you get the correct part before attempting this on your own because most parts supplies will not allow a return on an open electrical component.

first I unplugged the stove,took the screws out of the pan that holds the element to the stove, then unplugged the element.then I plugged in the new element, then screwed the screws into the pan that holds the element into the stove. it was very easy.

1. Slide the Oven door out of its hinges after removing the screws - see Owner's manual.
2. Place door on floor with the inside face on the floor.
3. Remove screws on side and bottom of door and the lift away the side stamped pieces.
4. Remove screws as they becom visible and lift away the pieces till you reach the inside glass.

Remember the sequence and be careful not to strip the Phillips screws when unscrewing.

Turned off the power! Unscrewed the element (2 screws) pullled the wires out. Put the new part right in. Easy!
Thank you-only a week before Thanksgiving, what a life saver! Also, order on Monday AM and was delivered by mid-day on Wednesday!

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

My bottom oven didn't work, and I had called a service to come out and fix it. It was a $60 charge just to come out. My friend owns an apartment complex, and she told me it was two screws and a pull to remove the element and replace. I took the element out, ordered it for $38, had it the next day and repaired my oven in a matter of minutes. It was so easy and inexepensive. I feel like I can do anything!