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no water to icemaker
turned off water supply, took screws out of bracket, then unhooked water lines. Installed water lines onto new valve, plugged it in then screwed bracket back onto fridge, turned on water and was back operating
I found that I did not have the strength to stretch the new spring enough to install it initially. Using a 1/8 or 5/32 inch allen wrench I removed the pivot for the arm that the spring applies tension to. This allowed the spring to be easily attached to the hole in the arm and to the post in the bottom of the refridgerator. I then used a small pliers to grab the arm in front of its pivot hole and pull it against the spring into position to replace the pivot. Replacing the filter was surprisingly easy. I turned the water supply valve off under the sink and easily unscrewed the old filter (about a quarter turn). I filled the new filter with water and srewed in in. No wrenches required. I turned the water back on under the sink and everything works great!
I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor Peter
Repair was very simple. Removed refridgerator bottom back panel, about 6 or 7 screws. disconnected bad valve, installed new valve , connected water supply line and then reinstalled panel. Took about 15 minutes from start to finish.
Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.
I ordered the wrong part, the ice maker assembly, because your diagram was not marked properly. I returned the part and you credited my account. Thanks. Ordered the new bucket. It worked fine. Now I have ice and crushed Ice whenever I want. Thanks.
p.s. I didnt use any tools, but to satisfy you I select nut driver.
The original piece was already removed. installation required a little custom fitting as the mounting was slightly different and the copper tubing from the water line needed to be bent to fit. The push in plastic connection (output to the icemaker itself ) was simple ( I was a little leary of it not leaking.) I plugged in the solenoid connection first I attached both water lines and checked for fit. Made the adjustments and then screwed the bracket back on to the refrigerator. I could only install one screw but it holds it fine. I did have to trim the hard press board(cardboard) a little to fit the new valve. I believe the board is to protect against dust build up on the mechanical equipment (motor, condenser,etc)
It could not have been easier. The new part matched the old part exactly. I turned the water off going to the refrigerator, unscrewed one screw from the old part, pulled the electric plug loose, disconnect the copper water line from old part, cut off the black plastic tube next to the water valve going to the icemaker, and the new water valve was ready to install. It's that simple. I then took the new water valve, connected the copper water line to it, pushed the black plastic water line into its hole, connected the electric plug, and screwed the new part onto the refrigerater. In a matter of minutes I had water running to my icemaker again. I can't imagine the money I saved by doing this simple project myself. This took less than 10 minutes.
The replacement single outlet water valve was not an exact replacement and required a slightly different mounting position. The original plastic hose to the ice maker attached to the valve with a plastic nut. The new connection requires only pushing the hose into a hole in the valve. Easy and simple. However, the new mounting angle promptly broke the brittle old plastic hose. I was able to pick the broken pieces of hose out of the valve with a fine point pick saving the new valve. If I hadn't been able to pick the broken pieces out of the new valve I would have had to order another one. Off to the big box store to buy new 1/4 inch plastic hose and a coupler. Repair completed and no leaks. If the hose hadn't broken, the I would have been done in 15 minutes. I suggest you plan to replace the entire plastic hose when you replace the valve.
I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!