YWED94HEXW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The repair was easy as 1-2-3 removed the cover panel to find thermal fuse and igniter kit, one screw for each part unpluged wires removed bad parts and installed the new parts, pluged in wires placed panel back and pushed on button what you know I got HEAT it was easy as 1-2-3- great job.

Well first let me tell you I am 64 yrs old and female. Thank you so much for the video. That was the life saver. I followed instructions from the video and yes it was as easy as the gentleman said. The hardest part was moving the dryer out. I also ordered a thermostat and cut off thermostat. The dryer works just perfectly now. Thanks again for making it so simple for a lady like me.

Called a appliance place. They said it was a serious problem with master board and it was gonna cost 425.00 dollars. NO THANKS. Ten minutes to open ten minutes to find the problem. ( which was no were near the master board). Seconds to find and order the parts on partselect.com. got it next day. 15 to 30 minutes later my dryers running like it was brand new! Love it.

Queried the Internet for my model number of dryer. Found Part Select web site. Went to the site and entered my model number again. Found a list of common problems and my particular dryer problem was listed. Only two possibilities - thermal fuse or timer. Studied the diagnostic criteria for thermal fuse and that seemed to fit my situation. Watched the video of how to replace the thermal fuse. After watching the video, I was convinced I could fix the dryer. Ordered the thermal fuse and it arrived in about 2 days. Followed the instructions previously viewed on the video and replaced the thermal fuse. Success!! Mission accomplished!! I felt great that I had done this by myself with help from Part Select. A service call from a repair establishment would have cost about $130.00. I fixed my dryer for about $9.00 plus shipping cost of about $7.00. And I didn't have to wait for two weeks for a repairman to show up and occupy my whole day. I forwarded the Part Select link to all of my friends and relatives and told them to use Part Select for their repair needs. Awesome web page and service! Use them!

I first pulled the drum and turned on the dryer. The igniter never turned on. So I unplugged the dryer from the outlet and measured the resistance of the igniter, which was ok. I pulled the back panel and checked the thermal fuse, which was open. I also pulled the lint system plenum off of the unit, which was clogged with lint. This probably caused the thermal fuse to overheat. I cleaned out the lint collection system, replaced the thermal fuse and re-installed the drum. dryer is now working fine.

As per video instruction that came with the email order conf

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

First I changed the thermal fuse. Still did not heat up. Then changed the heater element. That fixed the problem.

The thermal cutoff kit was bad. I followed the instructions in the video on the website to repair the dryer. According to some extra research that I did, the heating element is protected by the thermal cut off kit so there is a greater chance that the thermal kit will need to be replaced before the element will. There is a chance that the element could go bad, but more than likely it ise thermal cutoff kit.

repair was easy,just took back cover off, changed out thermal fuse and but cover back on. Very cool that they even provide a video to show you how,,i'm sure i saved at least 100 dollars

Repair was fairly easy, lots of screws to remove but the instructions in the online repair manual were very clear. Lots of stuff to remove (top, front, drum, etc.) but not too challenging. Only tough thing was disconnecting one of the connectors on the electronics board, had to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the part to get them separated. Once I had it all apart it was very easy to replace the wheels and the belt. Putting it back together was easier than taking it apart.

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

1. Disconnect power cord and remove flexible duct. 2. Tilt dryer back and lean against wall, using folded towel to prevent wall damage. 3. Remove front/bottom panel - 4 screws on front/bottom of dryer. 4. Make alignment marks on internal vent duct where it attaches to vent bottom duct housing. Remove internal vent duct screw (towards front/top of duct) and slide vent duct out back of dryer (duct has to be removed to remove back panel) 5. Remove top panel (4 screws on back/top). 6. Remove AC power terminal block from back panel, disconnecting wire that restricts free movement of terminal block. Remove power cord from terminal block (3 nuts). Remove back panel (many screws). 7. From rear of dryer, gain access to idler pulley spring arm. Carefully note how belt routes around motor pulley and idler pulley (maybe record an image). Release belt from idler pulley. 8. Remove idler pulley triangle retainer (if still on pulley shaft) and remove old pulley. 9. Thoroughly vacuum lint and dust from all areas of dryer, internal duct, flexible duct and duct in wall (as far as possible) while dryer is in disassembled state. 10. Thoroughly clean idler pulley shaft of deposits with cloth. If desired, add very small amount of Park Tools Polylube 1000 to the cleaned shaft. 11. Install new washer, idler pulley and triangle retainer to shaft. 12. Re-route belt around pulley in original orientation. 13. Reassemble rear panel to dryer, terminal block to rear panel, and power cable and internal wire to terminal block. 14. Reassemble top cover to dryer. 15. Insert internal duct back into front vent duct, aligning guide marks, and secure with the one screw. 16. Plug unit in and briefly test, then unplug. 17. Again, tilt dryer against wall and reinstall front/bottom panel and screws. 18. Install flexible duct, plug in power cord and position unit for operation.

Pretty easy to fix, hardest part was having to get the screws out of the inside of the dryer to replace the sensor itself. Once that was done it was pretty quick! PLUS super fast shipping on my part!! Was fixed before any repair places even called me back!!