YSF379LEKB0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

First I removed the gas line from th wall. Second I removed to gas lines going from the regulator to the stove. The regulator then unscrewed from the stove itself and that was it. I reversed the process to install the regulator.

On the back of the range was a little plastic bag with the range document. In this document was instructions on how to check out the electronic controls, a drawing of the electrical wiring and a digram of the gas line part of the range. First I did the electronic part and it check fine. Following that the instruction was to check out the solenoid coils for the bake and broil valve. I believe the wires were blue, red and orange(it tells on the wiring diagram). It called for 216 ohms on each coil. When I unpluged the plug from the circuit board on the upper right backside of control panel I checked the resistance for the two coils. One side had 198 ohms and the other coil had 0 ohms. The instruction said that if either coil didn't measure 216 ohms or close to that value the valve would not work. So, I wrote down the Model number. Next I checked the gas valve for numbers, wrote down all that was on the valve because I didn't know which one was the part number for the valve. Went on line to the Whirlpool site, once in the Whirlpool site I found out they have a diagram of parts for different appliances, pulled up the model I was looking for, found the valve( under the valve part, the number was different than the one I had, but the information said it would fit the model of appliance I have) order the part. In a few days the part arrived. I turn the gas off, unplugged the electric. I removed the gas lines, had just a bit of a problem with the short gas line going to the burner for the oven, when the line was out I unplugged the control wires. Nake sure you write down how thw wires are on the valve before unplugging. There is an adaptor on the valve to the main gas line. You need to take this off and put on the new valve. This is where you need the pipe cement. Stay back from the end of the adaptor that goes into the valve one or two threads with the pipe cement. you do not want to get any inside of the valve. Put the adaptor on, tighten, plug in the control wires, replace the valve on the stove, connect the gas lines, put all the gas lines on before you tighten them. Turn on the gas. Check lines with soapy water for gas leaks. Plug in the electric, check it out. Don't forget to put the instruction back in their little plastic package and I also put a copy of the order I had for the new valve just in case I need it in the furture.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

removed the two screws that held the cook top on and moved it enough to get to the light switch. Removed the switch and tested with multimeter. Pulled the two wires out of the mounting hole and insulated with elect. tape. Replaced the cook top and installed the two screws that hold it in place. Located the switch at PartSelect on line and ordered it. When the switch came in (the next day), I connected the two wires, and snapped the switch in place, and I was back in business.

removed the worn out roller...inserted the new roller....tightened the nut...it was finished...this was without a doubt the most pleasent repair from start to finish..only took 3 days from the time i orderded the part to completing the repair...i would advise anyone to use " partselect.com" without hesitation

remove the hinge stays they just clip in
remove the door. took out screw at bottom of door.
replaced trim.
replacing the door was a problem i didn't have pins to put in the spring loaded hinges so i used nails to hold hinge in position.
so make sure to open oven door first insert pins or nails in hinges then remove door. It would have took 10 min. to do.

I took out the two screws that held the oven handle in place inserted the glass in the door and replaced the two screw!!! That easy!

since it was the control knob, all I had to do was to push it right onto the stem, and it was finished. Using the web site to find the correct item was very easy.

Un-screwed 4 screws. Got part numbers off of the pieces. Put numbers in blank on web site and ordered the pieces. Parts cam in 4 days later and installed the pieces with my trusty screwdriver.

Remove 2 screws holding oven bottom in place.Lift out the plate and replace with new plate. The hardest part of the replacement was lining up the screw holes. By the way i have never received such great service from any internet company as Part Select. I ordered the part on a Monday and the part was at my home the NEXT DAY and installed that evening.

Unsrewed what was left of the trim and oven handle. Just 4 screws total, then replaced the 2 screws of the trim and the 2 screws on handle.
Finished! Replacement parts fit perfect!!! Thanks a milliion!

Replaced broken knobs. No tools needed.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

I had problem with the oven of the stove since the beginning. It wa difficult to start. Later, it stoped working. The technician told m that the gas valve regulator was the problem. That was the reason I decided to buy a new one. After installing it, however, the problem continues. The ignition starts, but the gas does not go thru. It seems the signal does not go to the valve to open the gas.