YLTE6234DQ3 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Watched the videos that were very helpful and repaired it my self with no problems its fixed and running like new i took a little extra time to clean all of the washer since i had it apart any ways so the time to fix it was probably was a little shorter i would like to thank part select for all there help and videos it made this job so much easier.

there were 5 ,1/4 screws in the back panel . The heater box was right at the rear when the back was removed.. Replaced the two controls that were in the kit with a 1/4 nut driver. Checked the terminals for tightness and contact. No discoloration on contacts. Ran unit after reassembly for 20 min cycle to test ,Put into service

first I unplugged the dryer. Then I removed the back of the dryer with a 1/4" nut driver. with the back off using the same 1/4" nut driver I removed the one screw that holds the cycling t-stat slowly remove the t-stat and take one wire off at a time and plug it onto the new t-stat once all wires are replaced. place the t-stat back in and secure with the screw. Then put the back of the dryer back on. put the dryer vent hose back on. plug in and away you go. repair done. If that doesn't fix it. Then the next step is probably to check the gas valve coils. That is a little more difficult repair but not to hard.

There are youtube vids on how to get the thing open. I just wish I'd known the following: 1.remove agitator BEFORE opening the unit up and leaning it back (much easier to work inside the tube with it upright). 2. be aware that a free-floating part known as the skate plate can dislodge while the unit is on it's side/back. It is a generally triangular piece of flat-ish metal between the base of the tub and the top of the drive-train chassis. If it doesn't line up properly after you replace the parts you're going to get a noisy, clanking spin cycle the next time you run the thing (as I discovered).

I pulled out the old cap with my hands and jammed the new thingy into place. The lady of house did the repair. Easy

The prooblem started with the hole in the bottom frame, for tub spring wore through, spring fell off, then a spring retainer worn broke in 2 releasing 1 suspention spring. All springs were about to fail, metal very thin at at the contact points. Drilled a new hole for the new suspension spring, replace all 3 brackets, worn also, springs, and retainers with a small dab of grease at the contact points. The new springs mad the tub more stable than before the failure, and silent when spinning or washing. Be careful to get the springs in the right direction, then the spring comes over the outside the brackets and retainers, other way they rub in spots. On this machine one was backwards from the factory 18 years ago, surely that accounts for more stable running.

Age and condition of the washer were unknown. I had no agitator grease available. I went for just the replacement of the Agitator Directional Cogs. I reviewed the video for replacing the whole kit. Removed fabric softener dispenser and the seal below. The seal needed to be cleaned. Removed the 7/16" bolt with a socket and extra long extension. Removed the agitator. Pulled off upper agitator. The part that holds the cogs is in about the center of the upper agitator. It also needed to be cleaned. One original cog was broken the other were past needing to be replaced. Replaced the cogs and the retainer. There was some effort with getting the upper agitator down far enough to re-install the bolt. That was just a slight alignment issue. The other parts were put back in place.

I did repair myself with your instructions. it was very easy to do for my age. 84.

watched the video on line showed how to do it took about 45 min no problem

electric unplugged, removed water lines. two screws on back of control housing removed, tilted housing back, removed two clips on top of washer housing, removed body. tilted washer backward, removed brackets on water pump and electric motor, pulled motor off and removed broken parts on shaft, replaced with new parts. Lining up motor shaft to washer was a bit tricky but time and patience got it togather. replaced brackets on motor and water pump. put washer upright and put body back on the body has to be set on guides correctly or will not set right. replace clips andtilt top down and screw it. hook up water lines, and electric.

Follow instructions in part repair video from part select,but put washer on back first to see if can access area without removing the whole outer cover we did not even need to do that step only took 20 minutes to replace coupling. The video was great

Replacing the cycling thermostat went really fast and easy. Unplug the dryer. Remove the 6-8 hex-head screws holding the back panel in place. The thermostat location is in the lower left. below the black discharge air duct. Note the location and/or tag the wires connected to it. Pull off the wires and remove the screw holding the thermostat in place and remove it. Reverse the procedure for installation of the new thermostat. Where this got tricky was it did not solve the problem. A strict diagnosis based on the electrical schematic alone would have, and did, indicate a faulty thermostat, i.e. on that was not opening. However, what I found was surprising. The heating element coil had broken and part of it had "welded" to the casing, grounding it and effectively turning the 240V heater into a 120V heater. This allowed the heater to provide heat (low heat). However, the timer motor needs 240V to operate and since one leg of the heater was grounded the timer could not get 240V when the thermostat cycled off. Replacing the heating element solved the problem.

We watched the how to video...repair took less than 15 minutes. You can't go wrong if you just watch the easy to follow video! Washer works as good as new.