YKERS507HW3 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Read all others' directions and suggestions. Screw loosening spray was essential to remove the bracket holding the broken piece. Print out the blow-up showing parts from website. Read directions on removing and replacing door in original manual. Lay oven door on counter top front side up with hinges hanging over edge. I prefer a manual screwdriver - less risk of stripping screws. Start by removing screws at bottom edge. Next, side strips and then top piece with handle. Removing layers, being careful to keep them in order and turned the right way. Note the center piece of glass is held in place only by the parts around it so everything has to be tight and aligned. Put back together in reverse order with replacement glass part. My 10+ year old oven is as good as new. BTW I am a 67 year old woman.

Moved stove away from wall, cleaned ( hadn't been moved in 17 years). Disconnected Dual Broil Element, replaced with a new one, stove worked fine.

I read all the repair stories here. They gave me the courage to try it. I pulled the oven door out and up. I placed the door HANDLE SIDE UP on a pad on a table. I removed the screws from the bottom and sides and began disassembly. First the bottom, then sides. I came apart easily, I set the insulation aside, then removed the screws and bracket holding the glass. I cleaned all the parts and glass. I replaced the glass and insulation and put it back together in reverse order. I put the drill/driver clutch on low so as not to strip any screws. I checked for tightness with a hand screwdriver. I re-attached the door to the oven by pushing both tabs into oven simultaneously. It took a couple of tries. In all, the fix It wasn't too difficult. I was able to handle it all myself except that my wife helped with cleaning the parts and glass. Now it looks like new again.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed broken glass cover and bulb, cleaned old gasket off with damp cloth and replaced with new bulb, glass cover and gasket. No tools needed.

Lift top of control panel where florescent light bulb is enclosed. Remove florescent bulb. Remove two Phillips head screws that are below bulb. Top of control panel swings down toward front of range to allow access to burner switches. Simply replace wires on new switch in same location as old switch.

Repair was very straightforward. Based on information gathered from an earlier post about the same repair I simply removed all screws from the oven door. These were all located on the bottom edge of the door itself. Upon removal of the screws the door separated and exposed the "core" where I then had access to the hinges which were held in by one screw each. I removed the broken hinge, replaced it with the new hinge, pieced the door back together, put back all the screws, and the repair was complete.

I live in a small town in South East Colorado. We have just a Walmart and Sears and a few smaller hardware stores. I checked all of them to try to find this 25 1/2 inch Fluorescent Light Bulb, and nobody carried one. I would have had to drive 70 miles to find one. The Service of Partselect was wonderful and the bulb showed up in just 4 days. I was lost without this light. I have bought a few other items for my older appliances in the past from Partselect. com and was very happy with the service and how easy the web page is to navigate. .

Unscrewed about 10 screws to disassemble the door to get at the hinge then screw new hinge in. Was inspired by the woman who said she did it while watching a child. I saved $200 in the repair fee I was quoted

Loosened bottom screws and slipped in glass. Retightened.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Your online video was a great help.

Overall the project was not bad. There are many pieces to the door. Carefully observe the order in which the door comes apart. This will make putting everything back together a lot quicker. The screws that hold the glass clips in the door were almost impossible to remove by hand. A power drill was helpful. Extra time was needed to wash off the baked on crud. When it was all done, the oven looked brand new.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.