WWC8400SAL General Electric Washer - Instructions

Turns out it wasn't the belt. The belt was fine, worked without water, replaced in washer spot, reconnected water, worked fine. Put clothes in, wouldn't agitate, smelt burning again.

Pulled washer away from wall. Observed problem. Ordered belt. Went on vacation. Cut belt in two to remove. Removed flex coupling to pump. Tried to force new belt onto big sheave, but couldn't really access properly. With help, tipped washer onto its front. Then access permitted forcing new belt onto big sheave by turning (only one direction permitted by gear box). Most of time spent cleaning up oil from gearbox which dripped on floor and splattered on back wall. Wonder how long 15 yr old gearbox will last?

I had to tilt the machine to gain access to the screw that holds the yoke bracket in place. Then I removed the one screw that holds the yoke bracket and removed the yoke and it's cushion. I then had to remove the two friction pads from the old yoke and install them on the new yoke. I was able to re-use the old yoke cushion and after re-assembling the yoke and cushion, I installed this assembly with the one screw. Righted the machine and the job was done.

I own a vacation rental two hours from my home. Our guests
said that there was water coming out from under the washer.
I called our local handyman Lolo who is very bright. He came
over and looked at the washer and saw that a plastic part was leaking. He got on your website and put the part number in and we had our part within two or three days of ordering it.
I was impressed by your having this older part-maybe 15 year old washer,the fast delivery since we didn't do it by rush order. I also didn't have to hire an expensive repair service company. We are back in business thanks to your quick service and delivery. We will use you again in the future for sure.
Best Regards,
Trish W Haskell
Borrego Springs, CA

Trouble shooting on internet only mentioned worn drive belt as a cause for no spin. No mention of the possibility of a transmission problem burning out the centrifugal clutch. So the drive belt was ordered and when I checked tracking when it was late, I was informed that it was already delivered and signed for by some stranger, jmorris. Later that night I found the package at my door to late to do the repair that night. The next evening the repair was attempted and it was not difficult with the youtube video for guidance. Back together but it did not spin or agitate. On the third run dthrough the procedure I noticed that the clutch was really hot and the notor was not locked. But the big pully would not complete but bart of a revolution and hard stop. The repair was a failure and after the time spent diagnosing the wrong problem with inadiquate trouble shooting on the internet chart and the time ordering and waiting for the second chance delivery. The failed repair delayed to the point that the customer did not have time to do their laundry berore their weekend trip. They will have to get a new machine after waisting so mych time with a less than fully informed repair attempt. The internet trouble shooting help was inadequate. The delivery of the parts was botched using FedEx instead of UPS. At the last minute after hours of involvement it came to light that the machine was history and we were suckered into buying the wrong part and running out of time for the customer to ready their clothes for their trip. I felt so bad of the machine resisting the repair process thaqt I discounted my labor time and told the customer pay me what they felt would be ritght. It was not all part selectt's fault but they had their page in the story.

Lay the washer on its side, unscrew three screw to loose the rotor, put the belt and screw the rotor back.

We bought this used Hotpoint that was probably one of the original machine created back in the stone-age, it's so old. We've had it 10 months, and it's always had this... burnt rubber stink to it... then one day, it stopped agitating and sounded like a metal bucket of bolts being shaken. We're on a military income with five kids, and the idea of buying a new washer was just... heartbreaking. On a whim, having fixed a washer once before, we opened the front up and painstakingly pulled every last rubber fiber from what used to be the belt. Ordered the part. It shipped quick, arrived quick, and in under a week we were back in business. Someone else had mentioned the needing 1/4" socket, and I was glad I remembered that, because it made is SO much easier.

Gently turned washer over onto its front. Removed bottom metal panel (3 or 4 screws on each side). Removed old belt. Installed new belt. NOTE: The new belt is a tight and perfect fit, therefore it will not want fit on to both pulleys/ rotating discs. I have found the best method is to start the belt on the disc that drives the belt. Then place as much of the belt over the disc that sits below the washing machine drum as is possible(the spinning part)and then turn the belt by hand and the belt should pop on to the disc. If the belt goes on easily you may have the wrong belt as the belt must be tight to achieve the traction necessary for the washing machine to spin. HOPE THIS HELPS!! A screwdriver may be handy in helping to pry on the belt. Good look.

Using the 1" putty, push in on the 2 clips holding the top of the washer. Lift top, exposing the top of tub. Remove old rubber seal from top edge of tub. To ease installation of new seal, stretch it over the edge of tub which tensions it, then start tucking the outer lip along the outside edge, tilting the seal towards the outside edge until the seal is completely in its groove all around. I had to hold down on the seal to keep it from rolling off while I lowered the top back down. When the lid is down, push hard to engage the 2 clips that lock it down.

Unscrew the back cover to washer, Find 3 hole plug, plug in the cord, take the ground wire and screw it to the screw next to the cord that is screwed into the metal frame, put the back panel on and that's it! easy peasy! Remember to hook up your water hoses and turn on the water to check for leaks BEFORE plugging it in! Very Easy!

turned washer upside down- had to remove one frame cross member to get to the seal. replaced seal- replaced frame cross member. stopped the oil leak, but had a small rusted hole in the bottom tub. sanded that clean, inserted a rubber snap-in plug that fit the hole, covered with that monkey glue. let that dry for a while then covered that with BJ weld, let that cure 3 days. washer workes fine now no leaks at all