WWA8869MAL General Electric Washer - Instructions

Gently turned washer over onto its front. Removed bottom metal panel (3 or 4 screws on each side). Removed old belt. Installed new belt. NOTE: The new belt is a tight and perfect fit, therefore it will not want fit on to both pulleys/ rotating discs. I have found the best method is to start the belt on the disc that drives the belt. Then place as much of the belt over the disc that sits below the washing machine drum as is possible(the spinning part)and then turn the belt by hand and the belt should pop on to the disc. If the belt goes on easily you may have the wrong belt as the belt must be tight to achieve the traction necessary for the washing machine to spin. HOPE THIS HELPS!! A screwdriver may be handy in helping to pry on the belt. Good look.

quck delivery thanks. removed back panel and valve assembly. replace unit,and replaced panel. yep it works

Using the 1" putty, push in on the 2 clips holding the top of the washer. Lift top, exposing the top of tub. Remove old rubber seal from top edge of tub. To ease installation of new seal, stretch it over the edge of tub which tensions it, then start tucking the outer lip along the outside edge, tilting the seal towards the outside edge until the seal is completely in its groove all around. I had to hold down on the seal to keep it from rolling off while I lowered the top back down. When the lid is down, push hard to engage the 2 clips that lock it down.

Unscrew the back cover to washer, Find 3 hole plug, plug in the cord, take the ground wire and screw it to the screw next to the cord that is screwed into the metal frame, put the back panel on and that's it! easy peasy! Remember to hook up your water hoses and turn on the water to check for leaks BEFORE plugging it in! Very Easy!

Turn off cold & hot water inlets. Detached water and drain hoses from Washer. Unplugged electricity.Removed back panel using nut driver/wrench would also work. Detached plate holding old valve and then old valve from plate. Held old valve in one hand, detached each electrical connection from old valve and attched to same location on new valve. Reinstalled and reconnected everything. Work like a charm. $20 bucks instead of a new washer. Point of fact: the valve contains the selinoids that regulate water flow. I did not know this and was trying to find "Selinoid" instead of inlet valve.

turned washer upside down- had to remove one frame cross member to get to the seal. replaced seal- replaced frame cross member. stopped the oil leak, but had a small rusted hole in the bottom tub. sanded that clean, inserted a rubber snap-in plug that fit the hole, covered with that monkey glue. let that dry for a while then covered that with BJ weld, let that cure 3 days. washer workes fine now no leaks at all