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inlet valve threads worn
I disconnected two wires on back of inlet valve,then I removed the plastic hose connected to left side of valve. Removed old valve and replaced it with the new one.Attached hot/cold hoses and turned on washing machine to check for leaks.
only cold water would go into machine. No hot water works.
I removed 2 screws on the top control panel to tilt the panel back. Then "popped" the hinges. I then removed 2 screws on the rear panel, to "pick up" the panel out of its locking position. Then the rear panel was loose. I removed the 2 srews holding the water inlet valve to the panel, removed the hose and placed the new water inlet valve in position. Assembled everything back to gether. After a $16.00 part was replaced, the washing machine worked like a brand new one with very high water flow. It was a very simple task to do on your own.
My appliance repair man suggested that he install newhoses to the inlet valve and in doing so stripped the threads on the hopt water inlet valave which 2 days later resulted in a serious leak in the washing machine. It was obviously necessary to replace the inlet valve.
My appliance repair man replaced the inlet hoses into the washing machine and in doing so damaged the threads on the hot water inlet which resulted in a seriuous leak. I removed the 4 screws that held the damaged water inet valve (#PS270305)in place (inlet valcve and solenoid), removed the 4 wires to the solenid (noting the order in which they wree attached) and simply reattached the electrical wiring and screwed the inlet valve in place with the 4 screws that I had taken off to remove the old part.
The timer knob was cracked and the metal "D"-Ring was broken on my GE cloths dryer
This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc
Took the back cover off 6 screws, took the inlet valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, the vater valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, and disconnected the inlet valve clamp from the inlet hose to the washer. In reassembling reversed the process. Best part; G.E. was going to charge me $59.00 for the valve, and I got it for $16.10 shipped in one day.
I changed the Water Inlet Valve in less than 15 minutes. The valve fit exactly, and the water hoses fit right on. I turned on the water and the washer filled without hesitation. The cost was 15.00, this beat the 62.00 price I was given by GE for the part alone.
This is the second time I have replaced this part. This time, I knew exactly what to do...the first time took longer. We have hard water here and also sediment in the water. Over time, the valve will not shut off the water.
Shutting off the water and unplugging the machine, and opening the back of the washer (every screw was the same size, thankfully. I didn't have to change socket sized) First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and then I unscrewed the hose clamp and I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires one at a time. I reconnected each one as I disconnected it from the old one. That way I knew I had it attached to the correct post. Reconnected the hose and reclamped it. Then I reattached the unit back into the washer and rescrewed everything back in place. The washers, I put in the end of the hoses before reattaching to the faucets. Attached the hoses to the machine and plugged it in the outlet. It has been working ever since! (of course, I knew it would!) This machine is 25 years old and still going strong!
Unfortunately, this washer doesn't have a front panel: to get to the belt, removed the back panel. Unfortunately, you can't get to the belt from there either, unless you turn the washing machine upside down. Since the top of the washer is not level (control panel sticks up), the washer needs to be tipped upside down onto something the washer lid rests on, but keeps the control panel off the ground. We used...a sled. Unfortunately, since it didn't drain the last time used, even though we bailed the tub, there was still a fair amount of water that drained out once upside down. This is a heavy washer - took 3 of us tipping it over carefully onto the sled. We unbolted the motor, put in new belt, but needed to put a piece of the shifter arm assembly in place, which came loose. Took 2 sets of hands to accomplish all this. Works now - 2 small loads of laundry done successfully.
I emptied the washer and unplugged it from the wall. Then i pulled it out so I could get behind it. Next unscrewed the water hoses from the washer. Removed the plate holding the water inlet valve by unscrewing 2 screws holding it to the machine (I used Vise Grip/pliers). Note which side of plate goes up/outward so you can put it back on! Removed 2 more screws that hold the valve to the plate. Remove clamp from valve end to disconnect valve from tubing with a screwdriver. I was able to remove the tubing with a twisting motion even though my washer is way over 10 years old. Remove 4 electrical clips from the valve by pulling them out, (REMEMBER the order of the electrical wires!!). Install new valve by doing this in reverse. Then run test cycle, success and saved hundreds of dollars!
i Had washer up side down took puly out and transmission seal out used screw driver install your part add seal on it tap it back in used socket added quartz of gear oil90 as recommended put every thig back it good experience and saved hundreds of dollars for new ones thank so much for ur video and ur technical people on your site
After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part. Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am 83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY
I followed the instructions on your website to diagnose the problem, select the part needed for the repair, and fix the problem. Everything was as described in the video.
Cold water was not coming in very quickly in fact fill time went to about an hour
turn off water outlets, unplugged unit then removed water hoses, then removed the screws from the plate on the washer then removed the valve from the plate then unscrewed the clamp for the water inlet to the washer then removed the hose. then carefully removed the wire clips putting each one on the same connector on the new valve, then put everything back like I did when I took it apart and it works great.
I did watch the video, that Parts Select included in an email. After that just follow the instructions in the video. You do need two people to do the job, since the belt needs to be tight. One for holding and one to tight the screws.
Could smell burning rubber as it tried to spin, so figured it was the belt. No, I did no do it the hard way by removing the screws etc. I threaded the belt on the pulleys on one side, and slowly turned them, using my fingers to force thread the belt into place. Worked like a charm.