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Meat drawer rail broken
Removed the meat drawer and shelf from refrigerator. Removed 1 screw from right side rail. Slid rail forward and removed from slot. Inserted new rail into slot, and aligned with screw hole. Installed screw. Repeated process on left side rail. Reinstalled shelf into slots and slid meat drawer into place.
1] Pulled the meat drawer out. 2] Removed the shelf holding the meat drawer. 3] Unscrewed the right side rail. 4] Installed the new rail and screwed in place. 5] Re- installed the shelf and meat drawer.
Got the part. Watched the video. Replaced the Meat Drawer Rail. Just lke that! Easy squeezy! Thank you for making it so simple! ***** (that's five stars!)
The bulb wasn't the issue so I was hopeful the switch was. utube helped me some, but figuring my model was different than any on utube. Got the switch in and plugged it back in. Moment of truth. Didn't light. Ugggh! Out $50 for switch plus $20 for nut driver set.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch. Now what?
The evaporator coil is behind the freezer. Remove the rack that makes the shelf and remove two 1/4” hex head screws I the back of the freezer to access the coil. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice off the coil. The thermostat clips on the refrigeration pipe to the coil. Remove the old thermostat and cut the wires at least a few inches from the thermostat. Clip the new thermostat on the pipe and strip about a 1/4” of the wire ends. The electrical connectors (provided with the new part) must be crimped to connect the wires.
