Models > WRS3R3EW4 > Instructions

WRS3R3EW4 Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for WRS3R3EW4 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WRS3R3EW4
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Housing that the water filter was cracked. I think ,setting was too cold and froze and cracked it.

  • Customer: Leonard from Burlington IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
It takes a 1/4 " nutdriver to take one screw out that holds the cover over the water filter. You have to come up from the botton of cover. Then take two water lines off housing , by pushing the round collar back toward the fitting,and pull fitting off housing. Then take the two screw out that hold the housing on. Make sure you have the water turned off before you start.

Water coming out of the ice maker when dispensing water from the door.

  • Customer: kyle from Palo Alto CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 22 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having.
The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.

bottom of frezzer cold...top warm...refrigerator warm

  • Customer: jim from galveston TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I first located the wiring diagram under right frt. of fridge. Using it I troubleshot the problem to be the ADC module. I ordered the ADC module and blower motor that it controls(as a precaution since that is the device that the ADC drives)After removing the icemaker and all the back panels in the freezer you can access the blower motor. The ADC module is accessible after removing the plastic panels in the top of the fridge. Look for a burn spot on the module. Be sure to order the parts using the fridge model # and not the parts # on the wiring diagram(they will have changed since the model was built). Mine needed an updated wiring harness and deleted one of the dampner motors. Be sure to replace one wire at a time so not to get confused of wire location. Pretty straight forward repair if you have some mechanical ability. I have never repaired a fridge before, but have done car electronic work.

Refrigerator would not go into Defrost

  • Customer: Robert from North Chesterfield VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
When I first noticed that my refrigerator coil was iced up, I read a little bit about the defrost cycle of a refrigerator. I decided to try replacing the least expensive parts first. First I tried the defrost themostat, it was a very easy repair. My coil still froze up after a couple of days. Then I learned how to force my fridge into a defrost mode (on a frigidaire you just click the light button in the fridge 5 times in under 6 seconds). Then I noticed that the defrost heater was not heating up...this repair was more difficult. You have to first remove the two shelves, bin, and tracks. Then you remove the back panel...4 screws. Then you have to take out a couple of screws and drill out one rivet on the drain pan and pull the drain pan out so you can get the defrost heater which snakes up through the coil from the bottom of the coil. Be careful, as the drain pan and coil fins are very sharp, I sliced a couple fingers messing around with these parts. The defrost heater itself is relatively easy to put in once the coil is in the right position (there are videos on youtube on how to do this). After I put in the new heating element, and buttoned everything back up, I was excited to check my work...I forced the fridge into defrost by clicking the light switch 5 times, and the heater still didn't come on! It dawned on me that this problem started about 5 days after a major power outage (hurricane Irene)...When the power came on, it must have surged, and zapped the defrost control board...Long story short, I replaced the control board (about $75.00 from partselect.com) and my problem is fixed...at least I have a 100% brand new defrost system now...Of course it won't be too long until my wife wants another fridge to match her Stainless Steel applicances...oh well, this one will do fine in the garage.

Extreme noise for 3 months, then not cold

  • Customer: JAMES from LA MESA CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 20 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the fridge from encloser, removed rear cardboard cover and found compressor in rear. The compressor, being very accessable, was easy to find the bad starter/capacitor. I removed the spring retainer, pulled the capacitor off the starter, removed the starter by pulling outward and replaced with new. All went well when the unit started and cooled as new. Some noise at times, but traced to icemaker. As time went by, that noise was gone.

ice maker cycling properly but not getting water on fill cycle

  • Customer: Terrance from Orland Park IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
1.Unplugged appliance. Removed rear access panel, turned off water supply valve, removed two screws holding water valve assembly in place.
2. Removed and drained all water lines.
3. Removed three electric solenoid wiring connections.
4.Cut and marked all water lines to facilitate new connecting procedure (instructions provided with the new valve assembly).
5. Inserted the water lines into the new valve by applying a bit of vaseline on tubing end prior to pushing lines into O-ring fittings.
6. Clean the embarassing dust from under the appliance!!!

Note: All lines, wiring, and valves were color-coded to prevent connecting to wrong lines and electric solenoids.

Note: Be sure to remove water inlet supply trough to rear of ice-maker. This tube may freeze solid and prevent water from filling freeze tray. This is done by turning the inlet pipe on the back of the cabinet 1/4 turn and retracting from cabinet.

The ice chute door didn't close all the timed

  • Customer: Shelby from Clinton IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.

ice maker would not rotate out cube or crushed ice.

  • Customer: David from Ponca City OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
1. Remove outer plastic face cover (4) screws.

2. Revove (1) U type nut keeper & (1) metal washer.

3. Remove (1) plastic nut on end of metal auger.

4. Remove inner plastic cover (4) screws and disconnect control rod. (Note postion of control rod befor disconnecting)

5. Note position and order of metal blades and plastic spacers on auger before siding off the end of auger to reposition them upon re-assembly.

6. Remove metal support panel from end of ice bucket (4) screws.

7. Remove auger & plastic cylinder from ice bucket.

8. Remove - slide drive blade off auger.

9. Drive blade replaced.

10. Re-assembled other items removed in reverse order

Light socket melted around bulb

  • Customer: William from Alexandria VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

The water coming from the dispensor (and the ice cubes) had an off taste

  • Customer: Robert from Saint Louis MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I didn't know where to go to get the filter, so I went to Parts Select.com, they had the filter in stock. I placed the order and when I received the part (in about 4 days) I was able to get it put in & working in about 15 minutes. The water from the dispensor & the ice cubes taste a lot better. Now that I know where to get parts I won't wait that long to change out the water filter.

Ice maker quit making ice

  • Customer: Warren from Ottumwa IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
turned off water supply at water line to fridge. removed two hex head screws @ bottom of rear of appliance that hold the water valve in place.
Simply moved color coded elect. plugs from old one to new one, same with water lines. Only difference is, the replacement one I got uses push in water lines and my original was compression fit. No problem though, just cut the nipple off of original line going into new valve and you are good to go. Might want to have an extra 1/'4" brass compression washer though for the one remaining line. Whole process I did on my lunch break at home less than 30 minutes.
Only problem though was nothing changed. Spoke with service man over the phone and he said MOST of the time it is water freezing up in the inlet tube top of machine, inside. Remove water line from rear outside on top behind freezer and with a straw try to blow through, if it is froze it will not go through. Mine did not go through. Used hair dryer inside freezer in back on incoming line 5-10 minutes,thawed out, makes ice. Go figure. Changing valves was easy and well described as stated, just not necessary in my case, but now I know. Thanks, Warren in Iowa

Ice Crusher Broke. Plastic in Ice Tray

  • Customer: Ronald from Dickson TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 4 screws holding face plate onto ice bucket. Removed the 3 screws holding the ice crusher housing. Noted postion and rotation of teh s;ring loaded ice selecting rod. Removed broken crusher housing. Reveresed process for installion. Took for test drive. Operational...

The bottom of Refrigerator would not get below 48 degress. Freeezer was working fine.

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Bridgeville PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 17 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged fridge. I then removed cover that keeps fan protected. I then removed 2 screws that hold the evaporator motor in place. I then removed 3 wires running to motor. Very easy to remove, just pulled connections apart. I then replace the old motor with new.

The Sears repairman wanted to charge me $359 to repair. I did repair for under $40! Amazing what you can save if you have the time and knowlege to do it yourself.

Refrig door would not close automatically

  • Customer: Michael from Lithia FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the plastic/nylon piece on the door. First, I remove the door hinge cover by unscrewing the one bolt. Second, unbolted the two bolts that hold the door in place. Third, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Four, remove the bottom plate that is held in place by 3 screws. Five, using pliers move the old plastic piece from the bottom of the door. Six, press into place the replacement part. Seven, re-install the bottom plate. Eight, rehang the door on the bottom hinge. Nine, restall the top hinge and rebolt the two bolts that hold the hinge in place. Ten, reinstall the top cover. Finished.

The radiator was not defrosting.

  • Customer: Alfredo from Mount Pleasant SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.
All Instructions for the WRS3R3EW4
31-45 of 517