Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Hinge on one side had snapped.
Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.
Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
After doing an oven self clean cycle, oven temp couldnt be set correctly, heat element was warm,not hot
After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!
Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.
The expert said to replace the clock control and linked to the replacement part. The part was promptly shipped. The only difficult part of the repair turned out to be the removal of the ribbon from the old controller. I noted the tabs on the side of the ribbon receptacle and expected the ribbon to release when these were pushed in. What was actually needed was to not only push in but also to pull upward on the tabs in order to release the ribbon. That was not obvious and it took me a while to get the ribbon released.
Top oven element works, but bottom element works only intermittently
Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.
Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole. Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.
Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.
Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...
Electronic visual display had quit. Otherwise stove OK
Initially I made a false start by pulling out the stove, which was not necessary. Then dropped control panel by removing the several screws on the bottom of control panel. Removed the three connecting cables by freeing locking mechanisms. (The locks on the ribbon assembly are on both ends of the connector plug). Removal of circuit board then obvious. Installation of new circuit board quick and easy. All displays then worked OK. I added a fiberglass heat shield around the circuit board and time will tell if this worked or was a mistake; Your troublshooting tips were very helpful.
I am curious how the chap who found capacitor C3 to be defective zeroed in on it without a test harness.
I shut down power at the circuit breaker, removed the stove knobs, unscrewed the underneath screws of the front panel, pulled off the panel, and the electronic board/panel was there.
I unhooked the wires (3 sets), and used the socket to remove the electronic board from the front panel. I put it all back together. Very easy-- less than 15 minutes!
cut off power to stove & made sure it was OFF. removed the few screws on the underside of front cover. lift cover and un-screw the clock/display I then removed the wire strip feeds (one has friction tabs that need to be lifted before you pull it.. it's the flat ribbon cable use the butter knife to lift the tabs...easy does it) put the new clock in and reconect the wires. push the ribbon in and push the tabs. All done and saved $160.00 bucks
