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replace broken drive belt
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
Used the spatula to release the front panel (push flat spatula under top about 2 inches from either side to release the two sprng clips holding the front panel on) to expose the tub and motor assembly. Inspected the belt and it seemed worn and a lot of rubber particles were in base of machine. Ordered the belt from partselect - received it two days later. Loosened 4 motor mount nuts. Removed old belt and replaced. Tightened belt and tightened nuts on motor. Only tricky part is you will need extensions for socket drive because belt is in the way for two of the motor mount nuts. I used a 1/4" small socket wrench, with an extension. No expertise needed on this one.
First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and removed the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.
The Lid Lock Assembly came super fast! The install would have been flawless, but the "pre-drilled" holes on the new Lid Lock Assembly were way to small. We found that out after we had reconnected the wires and gotten it into place. Aside from that small set back, the install went great! This repair is definitey not one that you would need to pay a repair person to do!
My washer was making noise but not agitating or spinning on any of the cycles that I turned the dial to. Didn't know if it was the transmission or something simple. I did some research and discovered it may be the belt, even though the belt looked new, I changed it anyway by just removing the front of the washer and cutting the belt off and putting the new belt on by just turning the pulleys until it fed on. No need to tip it over to do the repair...and it WORKED!! Then I did the happy dance around the house...see woman can repair 2!
The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new spring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.
First, you will need to remove the agitator, if it hasn't fallen off by itself. Than, you will need a pulley to remove the coupling from the spinning pole . I used one of those pulleys with three arms to remove it , Second, I lubricated the inside of the new coupling with a little oil, and sided it down on the spinning pole. It was a little hard to installed but, I used a hammer and tapped it in. Third, I also put some lubricant on the new coupling to help the agitator slide down a little easier on the new coupling.
P.S. Check inside agitator for old rubber of the old coupling and remove it. (only if it has fallen off the old coupling.)
## WHAT I WISH I'D KNOWN BEFORE I STARTED ## 1. Remove the four hoses first. 2. remove the three screws holding the pump to the structure above BEFORE loosening the flex clamp. 3. with the pump free of the hoses and rest of the washer, then remove the flex coupling clamp from the pump end only; do not remove the flex coupling from the motor. 4. remove the old pump. 5. attach the new pump to the top of the flex coupling BEFORE attaching the pump to the upper part of the washer. This is the most difficult step, to get the flex coupling on the pump in a secure fashion using the clamp. It's much easier to do if the pump is not yet connected to the rest of the washer. 6. attach the pump to the washer with the three mounting screws. 7. re-attach the hoses. 8. run the washer and check for leaks.
I made the mistake of taking the flex coupling off the motor then tried to put the flex coupling on the motor and the pump when the pump was already attached to the washer. Major grief :>(
removed front body panel (2 screws at bottom and pulled down panel), then used pliers to squeeze pinch clamps and pull back the two hoses off the pump. then removed the two pump clips that secure the pump in place and used screw driver to gently pry the old pump off the motor shaft, under that was the rubber pump slinger which was pulled off the motor shaft. The next step was to sand the rust off the motor shaft and apply some vasoline to lubricate the shaft and install the new pump slinger and pump on the motor shaft,put the pump clips back on and push the hoses on the new pump and slide the pinch clamps back into place, run test to check for leaks then re-install the front body panel.
removed upper cover, removed front cover, tested switch with digital VOM, removed and replaced! 2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!
put washer on its side,removed 1cross section,loosened the nut that held on the pulley. loosened the motor and removed drive belt,removed drive pulley,removed old seal,poured in 90 weight gear oil,installed new seal and done everything else in reverse order. stood washer upright connected water hoeses,waste water discharge hose,set washer to spinanr turned it on to make sure no more leaks. everything is working well
First cut off both incoming water supplys. Next remove the water hoses to the inlet. Then remove some of the screws that are holding the back panel on that will give you access to the inlet plate remove those screws and that are holding the inlet in. when you remove the inlet mark the wires take of the water hose and remove inlet now do the opposite to assemble There was no Rocket Scientist needed and the funny part $12. cheaper than literally going around the corner to the appliance store Thank You and my wife thanks You
Old belt wore out and stretched, wasn't driving tub through spin cycle.
I loosened the four nuts holding the motor in place, slid the motor toward the tub to slacken the belt enoug to remove it, then replaced old belt with new belt, pulled motor back in place until belt was tight, then tightened the four nuts holding th emotor in place.
the belt was all worn out , it make a lot of noise
i took out the two back screws lift the top. took the two bottom front screws , lifted andtook off the front panel.took off the old belt an intall the new one in a circular motion put the panel and top back on and done.
