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Agitator was floating up off of base during washing
Removed agitator. Removed small bolt holding mounting device. Removed mounting device. Replaced everything in reverse order with new parts. No problems.
I replaced the work tub dampening strap because that what everyone recommended to replace for this problem. However the purpose of these straps is to dampen the agitation cycle and they have nothing to with the spin cycle at all. the balance ring assembly had been rubbing on the outer tub so I decided to replace it because of a "balance issue". However the ring is liquid with baffles to counter balance the load as it spins and it still had the liquid inside of it so it was actual not needed. What fixed my issue was I found a bolt laying at the bottom of the washer. This bolt was one of the 4 bolts that hold the outer tub to the metal support. When it feel out the tub was only held in at 3 points not the needed 4. This allowed it to rock a bit in the high speed spin and you thought it was going to fly into a 1000 pieces. I replaced the bolt and other parts since I had paid for them and everything works great now.
Removed the front cover of the washer by sliding a screw driver to release the clips. Loosened the 4 nuts that held the drivebelt motor pushed the motor back to release the drive belt. Replaced the drive belt, pulled motor until drive belt was snug and tighted the 4 bolts. At the same time, I replaced the 4 tub dampening straps located at the top of the tub and now the unit is just like new.
Repaired Agitator - required to pull from the bottom pulling on one side a little more then the other. Once you got loose it comes right off. Under neith there is a bolt that holds on agitator coupler. remove the bolt with wrench or socket wrench and then the agaitator coupler. Replace with new agitator coupler ,make sure grooves are aligned when putting on the rotor. Tap the top of the agitator coupler lightly until it is completely seated. Put the bolt on with wrench or socket wrench. Put the agitator back on over the agitator coupler and agin make sure grooves are alighned and push down until it feels it is seated. When done, give it a light pull to make sure it is secure and then you are done.
followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut
Actually putting on a knob is self-explanatory. But wanted to say your company had the best price and reaction (delivery time). Great job by PartSelect!
First removed front washer access panel. Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector Next: removed washer top/lid Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws) Next: installed new lid switch and screws Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire connector Next: installed control panel and screws Next: tested installation Next: installed front washer access panel Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.
First I removed the agitator with a belt. Then I removed the nut with a wrench. The Agitator coupli was smooth on the inside so I knew that was the problem. I got the new part, slid it into place. Tightened the new bolt and replaced the Agitator component with a quick push downwards. Easy!
We couldnt figure out why our clothes werent getting clean until I took the door magnet off and placed it on the sensor so we could watch the washing machine while it was operating with the lid open. The agitator was not moving at all. I put a rope through the fins of the agitator on 2 sides, and using a board for leverage, it popped right off. I used a socket to remove the coupler screw and put on the new parts. Washer works great now. A very easy repair.
Unplug the washer. Turn off water supply. Disconnect hoses and have a bucket to catch the water standing in the hoses. Unscrew the 4 screws on the top of the control panel (my model had torx head screws). Flip down the control panel. Unplug the triple water valve. Disconnect the hose clamp from the water valve. Unscrew the water valve using a 1/4" nut driver. Replace with the new valve in reverse order. If your washer is older I would recommend also purchasing the hose & water inlet (number 803 on the diagram) I was afraid that mine would crack when I removed it. It was a very easy repair and I am happy that I did not have to pay a repairman to fix thia problem.
Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.
Part Select inclusion of parts diagram helped determine which part was broken, and how to disassemble just what was necessary. I was planning to open up the control panel to get inside, which was not necessary. Assembly was simple for the same reason. Sometimes, it does help to read the "manual" first....
Old belt wore out and stretched, wasn't driving tub through spin cycle.
I loosened the four nuts holding the motor in place, slid the motor toward the tub to slacken the belt enoug to remove it, then replaced old belt with new belt, pulled motor back in place until belt was tight, then tightened the four nuts holding th emotor in place.
- Troubleshot fill valve first. OK - Followed leads to temperature selector switch. - Checked resistance and live voltage at switch. - Determined switch had failed on "hot" side.
1. SECURED POWER 2. Removed four torx screws on top of dashboard. 3. Removed six sheet metal screws from dashboard back. 4. Removed 4 leads from bad switch (one at a time). 5. Placed leads on new switch (one at a time). 6. Removed existing switch. 7. Installed new wired switch. 8. Re-installed dashboard back and top screws. 9. Op-test sat.