WFW94HEXR1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Replace front legs. Very easy fix.

replaced actuator switch. It did not fix the problem. Replaced actuator arm, and fixed. Needed the switch because gears were stripped. Needed the arm because it seems over time, the arm straightened, thereby increasing its length so that the rotation of the switch bound up during its cycle.

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

The repair was simple as you can imagine. Thought I could buy these legs at any big box store or at least at the local hardware store. No such luck. Partselect had the right product---easy to order and easy to install. Things around here are great.

Really was not a repair

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.

Shut off water and disconnect hot and cold hoses. Use nut driver to remove three screws at back/top of washer. Slide top of washer back and up to remove. Use pliers to loosen band clamp on rubber hose and pull away from valve assembly. With fingers, disconnect wiring from hot and cold solenoids. Use allen wrench to remove valve assembly from frame of washer. Use reverse order to install replacement valve, although you can leave the top off the washer until you've checked for leaks.

just clipped it on.

I just put the divider in the dispencer