WFE321LWQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Slid range out from the wall. That was the hardest part but wasn't that difficult with someone helping. Slid cardboard underneath to prevent scratching hardwood floor. Once range was pulled out I pulled the plug and removed the two parts of the back panel. There were two screws for lower panel and ten screws for the larger panel. Removed two front screws for the on/off knob for infinite switch to release it. Pull the two connections. They needed to be pried off but wasn't difficult. Plugged in new infinite switch and screwed it back in from the front. Replaced panels and plugged in the range. Checked if switch worked which it did. Slid range back. There was a great u tube video that shows you exactly what to do.

1) Unplug stove.
2) Remove back cover of the stove held in place by 8 screws (4 short ones for the upper holes and 4 longer ones for the lower holes.).
3) Remove the knob from the switch that you are replacing to expose
the switch mounting screws (2 screws).
4) Remove the screws.
5) Go to the rear of the stove and extract the defective switch.
6) You will see 2 plastic plugs going into/onto the switch. Remove the
plugs. MAKE SURE YOU ARE UNPLUGGED FROM THE
Wall OUTLET!! A small flat blade may be needed to separate the
plugs from switch.
7) Attach the plugs to the new switch (there is only one way to do it.
you wont get them confused and put on wrong.
8) Put the new switch where the defective one was.
9) Come to the front of the stove and put your two screws in and
replace the knob.
10) Replace the back cover,
11) Plug in and test burner.

Unplugged stove from electrical outlet. Pulled temperature control dial off by hand. Remove screws to top back stove panel with Phillips screwdriver. Removed top stove back panel. Unscrewed broken infinity switch from stove. Unclipped wiring harness to broken switch by prying loose with flat head screw driver. Reclipped wiring harness to new switch. Screwed replacement switch back onto stove. Reattached back panel with screws.

Remove vent trim from oven and set oven glass to the side. Next remove handle from vent trim (two screws). Next place handle on new vent trim. Place glass in place, (it is held in place by bottom of oven door and vent trim). next place side trim in place and place that side of the vent trim and loosely tighten screw holding trim into place at top of the glass. Next place the other trim into place under the vent trim and tighten the screws on both sides.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

took the handle off, replaces the side trim piece and replaced the handle. Very simple!

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

It went great. I am not very handy, but with a little help from your website reviews, I was able to easily remove the old broiler element and replace it with the new one in less than an hour. I immediately tested it and found that it worked great.

Removed drawer, after removing the 50# of junk in the drawer, Used screw driver to remove screw that holds glide to drawer and then place new part into place put screw into hole and tightened screw. Replaced drawer and told wife not to put 50# of junk back into the drawer.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

After doing a YouTube search. I successfully completed the repair by easily diagnosing the issue with the element.
I watched a video about 5 most common problems with whirlpool broiler elements.
The first being to inspect the element for damage. I found a small section that appeared to be rough and had a raised bump.
I decided to order a new element because the oven is older and it wouldn’t hurt to install a new one even if this wasn’t the issue.
Once the part arrived, which it did quickly, I followed the video instructions. It was easy and straight forward. I completed the task in under thirty minutes. It was very simple and I now have a functional broiler element.

took old one off and installed new one used electrical tape to hold glass from sliding.Unscrewed moulding and installed new one