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Washer machine didn't get water.
I remove three screws on top of the washer, moved the cover of the machine in order to get access to the water valve, and then desconnected the two solenoid of the valve,and removed two screws that hold the valve with the frame and installed the new valve in same order a took the old one.
Noticed 3 straps were broken when we replaced the hose
I removed the front cover, then unscrewed the top to expose the top. There are two screws that hold each strap, which turns out are different sizes, so I had to use two different sockets. I also had to remove the hose & plastic tube for the bleach. Once that was done, the replacement was easy, I replaced all 4 straps, reconnected the tube for the bleach, screwed the top back on and snapped the front cover into place. This took maybe 30 minutes - and I am female!
First, I removed the four screws to expose the control panel. Then I removed both of the wiring connections on the switch, unscrewed the two screws holding the switch, and removed it carefully. Take the time to look at the old switch because it does not simply lift off the panel. It has a sliding lock to keep it in place on the panel and you must be careful when you remove it or install a replacement. The new switch installed easily, so I reconnected the power and started the washer. Bingo!
Left up agitator, use socket set to remove agitator coupling. Then replace old agitator coupling with the new one. Tighten nut with socket set, replace agitator. Yes it is that easy.
Tipped washer over on to the front side. Removed back panel. Removed the flex coupling to the water pump. Removed the old belt. Installed the new belt and reversed the process to put components back together.
After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that prevents the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.
The plastic "ears" on the timer assembly had broken off. So when you tried to turn the knob, it would just spin without contacting the gears.
I first removed the screws from the top of the washer electric panel. Then pulled it forward. I then removed the plastic clip from behind the knob. Then I removed the screw holding the timer in place. And then removed the one single wire and the connecting plug. I then plug both wire assemblies in to the new one, slid both ears under the brackets and inserted the one screw. Then just put the screws back in the top. It works great!!!!!
Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there to swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.
First off, the repair part arrived in only two days. The schematic was very detailed and accurate on your web site. Once the part arrived and removed from the bag, it was a snap to install with just a needle nosed pliers. Total time was less than 5 minutes. This was the first time I had used PartSelect and you can bet I'll be back. Thanks again. Gary K. in IN.
Took front panel off the washer and found the pump working but no water drained from the tub. Took the motor off the washer by removing the two 10mm screws and attaching hoses. Decided to take the motor apart and found the propeller shaft has broken off inside the pump. Ordered new motor from Partselect and replaced it. Washer is working fine now.
The zinc drive hub that connects the transmission to the tub had corroded away.
It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Old one had developed rough or little jagged edges on the side
Just used hands to pry open the old agitator from the washer. If one angle does not work try another and go in a clockwise direction. The new agitator had a new coupling at the bottom, so I needed something to push it out from the top, found a long metal rod and easily pushed it down and out. Verified that new coupling was exactly the same as the old one. The old one was good so I just pushed the new agitator down on the old coupling and it worked fine.