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No hot water fill
- Troubleshot fill valve first. OK - Followed leads to temperature selector switch. - Checked resistance and live voltage at switch. - Determined switch had failed on "hot" side.
1. SECURED POWER 2. Removed four torx screws on top of dashboard. 3. Removed six sheet metal screws from dashboard back. 4. Removed 4 leads from bad switch (one at a time). 5. Placed leads on new switch (one at a time). 6. Removed existing switch. 7. Installed new wired switch. 8. Re-installed dashboard back and top screws. 9. Op-test sat.
I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
24 of 31 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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No Spin Or Agitate
Finding the disassembly instructions in the control panel was very useful. After disassembly and inspection obviously the transmission had lost oil and deteriorate the belt and actually threw it off. Finding your web site was very helpful. The exploded views parts catalog were great! We had it rush shipped. It was great to speak with a representative on a sunday was excellent. The rep was knowledgeable and we concurred on which part were needed. Tracking number was correct via e-mail but only rec'd tracking number for one of the two packages which was stressful at the fedex office at pick-up. All items were rec'd on time assembly was straight forward. The basin retainer nut came loose after 5 loads and made a terrible noise. I applied blue loctite to nut and reinstalled. Seems to be working correctly. Bought an extended warranty which added 4 yrs. Washer failed 2 months after warr. Expired. Figures!! Great experience with partselect thank you.
Unplugged washer. Removed four screws on the top panel, unplugged and removed old water level pressure switch (which was visually broken), replaced with new part, put the top panel back on, re-connected power, and tested to make sure that the washer would now fill to Extra-Large. Worked!
First i the four screws on the switch area remover the front panel. Remover the lid swith and replace it. It was good to go again. It is as easy as one two three.
Two visits by ge repair techs failed to clearly identify the problem. After observing many fill ups, I decided the problem was an intermittant failure of the pressure fill switch. Ge wanted $80 for the service call plus $200 to replace switch, and recommended we buy a new washer for about $400! For $ 32 partselect shipped a new ge pressure switch in about 3 days! Openning up the top control panel required removing 4 sheet metal screws with 6 point star heads. The t-15/t-20 star driver was available at ace hardware for under $2. Removing the old pressure switch and installing the new switch was described in the ge service sheet that came with the washer (very easy). I installed the part and solved the problem; the machine runs like new!
Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans. That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut. Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place. Installation is reverse of removal.
My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.
Transmission bearing went out creating alot of noise on every cycle.
I had to remove top control panel and flip it over the back and out of the way, but did not have to unplug anything. I then had to remove front and top panels in order to remove the agitator and eventually the tub assembly itself. Once the tub assembly was removed, I had to turn it upside down to remove the transmissing and brake assembly as well as the mounting bracket. The entire removal process took about an hour and a half. The reassembly took less than an hour. The most difficult part was removing the 1 11/16 nut that ties the agitator to the tramsmission through the tub. It took 3 of us to hold the tub in place so that one of us could use the 3/4 drive ratchet and extension to loosen the nut. We did the same thing during the reassembly. All together there ware quite a few parts removed and a fair amounte of different screws. In order to perform this job, you must have a decent tool set and the ability to diagnose each step of the process, but it's not very difficult otherwise.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
13 of 14 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Tranny oil ran out onto Laundry room floor/making noise
Removed front cover(use screwdriver)clips on top of cover under lid Disconnected power from wall Disconnected wires to motor 1 screw/unplug for motor Uncwrewed clamp on drain hose Removed top lifts off easliy With help released Washing drum assy from hangers Slid back and Tilted drum assy outwards from drum opening out to the front of machine Pulled agatator up and off of hub Remove one bolt from hub 1/4 " rachet w 3/8" socket Pull off cap Removed Locking nut(couterclockwise)nut is soft metal used good vice grips firmly locked on nut Removed inner washing drum Turned over Entire Assy (motor up) Removed belt (slid off) Removed 4 blots from Motor/Tranny assy to Plastic outer drum Lifted off Motor/Tranny assy and pulled tranny out Reaasemble in reverse order witht the exception of replacing the hub seal(inside)Outer drum assy. There were service instruction under the front control panel.
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
13 of 15 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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There was no hot water coming out, I had already checked the screens
First I removed the old part (2 screws) Pulled off 4 wires (maybe the wrong word, I'm not a professional! Put the new part in-turned the water on and had a stream of HOT water-yay I had been putting this off because no one in my family had noticed (except me) and with my husband out of work it seemed like a low priority, but when my daughters came home for Christmas, they said "There's no hot water in the washing machine" so I took the plunge--I cannot believe I waited that long! It literally took me seven minutes!
After reading how others have done this and how easy it was, I decided to give it a try. And, sure enough, it was really easy. However, one concern I had was on lifting the old agitator off from the axle using both hands. I didn't want to have the agitator come crashing into my face as I pulled up. So I put a pillow on top of the agitator.
I remove three screws on top of the washer, moved the cover of the machine in order to get access to the water valve, and then desconnected the two solenoid of the valve,and removed two screws that hold the valve with the frame and installed the new valve in same order a took the old one.