W30400B Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

My husband did the repair in about 15 minutes using the instructions from other people on this site that had don the same repair. We were quoted $500 by a repair man but this site was recommended by a friend and I was easily able to find the part needed and it shipped promptly. I am very happy to have my clock working again.

I totally disassembled the stove top (which turned out to be unnecessary). All that needed to be done was to remove the control knobs, and the four screws that hold the face on. The face, with the clock module attached, lifts off the range (with a little effort). The clock module can then be removed by removing two screws and three electrical plugs. The largest plug is actually the end of a ribbon cable. It has no plug on it. You just put it in the plug on the new clock module and engage the latch on the plug. Reconnection of the other two plugs is obvious.

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

My husband ( a superior handy man) very easily replaced the glass on the inside of the oven door and further replaced the hinges which had sprung yrs ago when I rested a 30+ lb turkey on the door. He removed the oven door and it was obvious to him how to repair the problem. The oven is back to heating correctly.

Followed other's comments about process. Opened door then removed 4 hexnuts from bottom of stove control panel. Removed hexnut from each triangular side panel of control panel. Removed side panel (it did break off a screw area near the top of the panel, but did not negatively affect reassembly. Control panel slid down and tilted out so I could see the backside of the clock control circuit card. Removed 2 small cables. The flex cable is removed by pushing in on the small ears on each side of the connector. The cable has a couple of holes which are over protusions on the connector, so be careful. Removed the 2 hex nuts holding the board down, and put in the new one. Put cables back on as removed - the near side of the flex cable connector is free to slide up about 1/8 inch when ears on both ends of connector are pushed in. When raised, put the flex cable in place and push in (along with the side of the connector) until it is latched in place. This took me the longest since I was being careful here, but no more than 10 minutes. Then put control panel back in place, and put triangular end pieces back on panel and attach with hex nut, then put 4 front hex nuts back in place. Worked fine!! Thanks for everyone's encouragement and help in understanding what I would find during this process.

Thanks to all of the previous do-it-yourself repairers. With those instructions it was quite simple to do the repair. The only glitch I had was trying to get the ribbon back into the new unit. That was until I looked at the old unit and finally figured out how to release the new unit lock. Then it was a simple process to install the ribbon. My biggest problem was finding my close-up glasses so I could actually SEE what I was doing.

Thanks,
Kevin

I removed the 4 control knobs, removed 4 screws behind the knobs, removed 4 screws on bottom of panel. lifted front panel, off of stove, unplugged wiring on back and placed new panel by reversing process. Works great. Like new. Very easy if you have any experience working with appliances or most any kind of mechanical experience. Simple and straight forward.

Installed it by dropping the front plate down, removing the 2 screws that held the clock in place and then unsnapped the wires and did the reverse to attach new clock.

It's a very simple repair. After turning off the power at the circuit breaker panel, remove the 4 sheetmetal screws under the control panel with a nut driver. Pull the panel down slightly to remove it from the front of the range and hang the panel on the tabs on the front of the inner framework (into slots on the bottom of the panel. Remove the two pin connectors and the ribbon connector (procedure is self-evident when you see the parts). Remove the old display (two screws) and replace it with the new display. Reconnect fasteners and reassemble. Took maybe 5 minutes.

Turn off the breaker. Open oven door. On the underside of the front panel, I removed 4 screws and trim panel. I also removed the 4 1/4" nuts. I pulled the front burner knobs off and removed those 4 screws. I also took out the 2 small screws on the underside of the front panel. Not all of these screws may have needed to come out.

The clock assembly board will then tilt forward. I used masking tape to hold it to free up both hands and took a photo of the connections, though I didn't need it. Three connections are swapped to the new board. The two plugs are easy.

The tricky thing is transferring the ribbon to its new connector. In computers, most ribbons stay with their connector, but not here. Pull up on the tabs on the old connector, pull out the ribbon itself, and place it in the new connector. There are slots on the ribbon which will catch on other tabs inside the new connector as you push the ribbon down.

Reassembly is the reverse. With cleaning, the job took about 20 minutes.

Removed trim and control section of chassis from oven (6 screws). Then pulled three separate wire harnesses from the old clock assembly and unscrewed it from the sub-chassis (4 screws). Then I simply reversed the entire process by installing the new clock assembly. The entire replacement process went fine and took appx 30 minutes.

I was about to call a repairman when I stumbled accross this website and found other stories just like mine.
I ordered the part, got it in two days(the day before thanksgiving). I pulled out 4 screws holding the front panel and the panel came loose and tipped forward. I was then able to access the display and disconnect the wires and remove the two screws holding it in. I installed the new one and I was done. Now the display is so bright I could use a dimmer on it.

removed the front plate from the stove, then removed the old clock part (disconnected) and then put in new part. Worked like a charm and saved me $200 from the price the repair person was going to charge me. Thank You

Undid the screws, disconnected the wires and replaced with the new unit and put the screws back in place.

Open oven door to see the underside of the control panel. There are 4 screws and 4 small bolts to remove. Remove the screws, which frees up the front trim (remove and set aside), then the 4 bolts. Next, remove the burner control knobs. Behind each knob there are 2 small screws; remove these as well. You can now rotate the control panel away from the oven, pulling out from the bottom first. Disconnect the two cabling harnesses and the control panel is then free from the oven.
There is a connector that goes to the keypad. To disconnect this, lift up on both sides of the black connector until it "snaps" up. Then the flat part of the connection lifts up and out of the black part. Next, remove the 2 bolts that hold the display board. To re-assemble, reverse the process: bolt the new display in place; insert the flat connector and press down on the black part until it clicks. re-connect wire harnesses. Slide the control panel back in place, starting with the top to slide it under the lip of the top of the oven. Re-attach knob screws. re-attach bolts on the under-side, then finally re-attach the trim with the 4 screws.