Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven temperature all over the place
I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.
Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.
Terminal block arc'ed because a wire had become loose.
Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
This was a very easy repair and the website helped greatly. my husband simply pulled old element out and pluged the new one in. Excellent website, saved us a lot of money.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. That is when I notice that the new element had a female connector and so did my wires comeing out of the stove. I took the old elements male end off (with a grinder). The mail end was long enough to use it connect both female end.
Turned off power at breaker box. Removed two screws from the old bake element on rear of oven wall. Pulled out bake element from back of oven so wires were exposed (about 3-4 inches). By hand, removed the wire connector from each side of the element (wiggle it loose).
The part I purchased was exactly as described on the PartSelect website (i.e., it had the correct connections - female - on the bake element). The part arrived in 2 days in perfect condition. I definitely will use PartSelect again.
Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!
First, let me say that the (built-in, electric) oven I was working on was made sold by Kenmore, but the error code and, possibly the repair might apply to many other brands. I was getting a beeping sound and an F1 Error Code on the display of the "clock, timer, control board". On-line research said "you're control board needs to be replaced. I spent days looking for a cheap, new one ($400 for a factory replacement did not appeal to me). Then, I tried "re-setting" the control board. In my case, it took- turning off the power to the oven, turning power back on, pressing and holding "clear". After 30 seconds the beeping stopped. 45 seconds later the error code went away and the oven worked. I opened it up and carefully tested everything with a meter while it was on.It has been working flawlessly for two weeks now. So, the repair took me weeks and also less than two minutes, plus time to give it a check-up. Hope this helps. P.S. I had to say that I used a part in order to post this, I did, but not for this repair.
It was easy because the clips were already on the new door gasket. Just had to remove old door gasket and replace it with the new one. Very simple job.
