VVSR1030H2WO Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

I was frantically trying to find a cheap washer to replace the one that "broke". Fortunately, my son's roommate is a maintenance technician. He diagnosed the problem immediately. I googled the issue, found the part, ordered it and received delivery of the part in 3 days. It took all of 5 minutes to replace the part and reassemble the washer. Now on to the 15 loads of laundry that have been stacking up!

With the instructions found online, this was a quick easy repair. I used youtube to have video to show the method. Used rope to pull up agitator, used wrench to loosen bolt and then put back together. Part was delivered really fast, I recommend Partselect.com for the parts you need!

Gently turned washer over onto its front. Removed bottom metal panel (3 or 4 screws on each side). Removed old belt. Installed new belt. NOTE: The new belt is a tight and perfect fit, therefore it will not want fit on to both pulleys/ rotating discs. I have found the best method is to start the belt on the disc that drives the belt. Then place as much of the belt over the disc that sits below the washing machine drum as is possible(the spinning part)and then turn the belt by hand and the belt should pop on to the disc. If the belt goes on easily you may have the wrong belt as the belt must be tight to achieve the traction necessary for the washing machine to spin. HOPE THIS HELPS!! A screwdriver may be handy in helping to pry on the belt. Good look.

We bought this used Hotpoint that was probably one of the original machine created back in the stone-age, it's so old. We've had it 10 months, and it's always had this... burnt rubber stink to it... then one day, it stopped agitating and sounded like a metal bucket of bolts being shaken. We're on a military income with five kids, and the idea of buying a new washer was just... heartbreaking. On a whim, having fixed a washer once before, we opened the front up and painstakingly pulled every last rubber fiber from what used to be the belt. Ordered the part. It shipped quick, arrived quick, and in under a week we were back in business. Someone else had mentioned the needing 1/4" socket, and I was glad I remembered that, because it made is SO much easier.

After trying to go about it the wrong way, I removed the three 1/4 inch hex head screws at the very top of the the back. These screws go up at about a 45 degree angle. After removing these three screws. the control pans simply tilts forward, then slides sideways and is easily removed. The knob on the timer is secured with a plastic clip, which is easily pulled out sideways with a needle-nosed pliers. The timer itself is secured with one screw. After removing the screw, rotate the timer to unlock from the two lugs that retain it. The wires all go in one plug.

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I watched the video you provided and I could't believe how simple it was. I'm 67 yrs old and I just followed the video instructions.

WATCH THE REPAIR VIDEO! I followed the easy instructions and replaced the water level pressure switch in no time. It was very easy to do!

I replaced the water level pressure switch but that did not fix the problem. I tried to replace the pressure tube with some rubber tubing from the hardware store but that did not fix the problem. I replaced the tubing with the correct pressure tubing for PartSelect and now it seems to be working fine. I think the old tubing had a small leak in it I could not detect and the hardware tubing was not exactly the same as the manufacturer part. Anyway it was still a lot cheaper than a new washer. Thanks for the parts and the videos, you made it a do it yourself job. John

My washing machine began smoking one day while on spin cycle. I freaked out and turned every breaker off on the electric panel since I, apparently, forgot how to read during this episode. Once the smoke cleared and my brain power returned I removed the front panel of the machine. After a quick look I decided I saw nothing wrong that I could fix. 24 hours later my brain had returned to normal functioning capacity so I decided to turn the power back on to the washer and see what happened. It was then that I noticed the smoke coming from a black cylinder on the front of the washer. I googled my washer and the VERY helpful diagrams from partselect.com came up showing me this was the capacitor. Since as mentioned previously my brain was now functional again I was able to determine this would be an easy fix, ordered the part, got it 24 hours later (!!!!!) with no special shipping, and installed it in 5 minutes. I feel smart today! Thanks Partselect.com!

After the GE Washer went dead last week Tuesday while my spouse was doing laundry, I I took it to the back yard just to examine the inside from beneath before going to find a new one that evening.
While on its back I notice that the motor still worked but it was very weak. Taking the belt off it went a little faster but weak. Then I remembered that there was supposed to be an electrical part that sends or allows current to go to the motor, but didn't know the name nor what it should look like.
I started my search and found this cylindrical electric part that had a scar on the outside and a hardened mass protruding from the inside. Since the wires to and from the part was the same color, I marked one terminal, then took pictures of the position and wiring of the part I identified as the problem, then took it out of the machine.
At this point, I went to the car, sat inside, started the car, and was about to leave to find a washing machine, then I thought of the Internet. I went on the Internet, found a store that sells GE washing machines parts, identified the part to be the capacitor. I ordered the part late that evening, received it Thursday afternoon, installed and reassembled the machine immediately, and today is the eight day since the fix and as I am writing, Thursday, August 15, 2013, the machine is doing my laundry. The diagrams made it very easy to identify the name of the part, and since I am mechanically inclined, getting the old part out and installing the new part was very easy. ~~ Vasco

Unplug washer; removed three hex head screws from top rear of control panel. Removed plastic clip securing control knob to timer shaft by pushing it out gently with a narrow crewdiver; that enables you to remove the control dial from shaft. Removed wiring block from timer by pulling carefully. Removed screws holding timer to the back of control panel. Installed the new timer, being careful to put tabs on timer UNDER the molded holding stops on the back of the control panel. That step centers the timer in the proper location. Replace screws. Re-attach wiring block. Reposition control panel and replace screws. Slip the control knob back on the timer shaft; replace clip in slot on shaft. Plug the washer back in. Conduct test cycle. Perfecto! We live on the island of Vieques, Puerto Rico. Part Select won't ship here, so I had to trans-ship it through my son, Brian, in New York. It would have taken a month to get a GE repair technician to come over here from the big island, and probably would have cost four times as much; more if he didn't have the part with him!!

My washer was overflowing when filling. Stopped filling when i unplugged from wall so i knew it was the pressure switch because the tube was fine. It took 28 hours from the time i placed the order to the time it hit my front porch. Got home from work and two minutes later i was washing clothes. Thanks for all the info, Tom

I removed the control panel and front panel of the machine exposing the water level pressure switch and hose. There was a clog in the hose that once cleaned out (with a shish kabab skewer)the problem was solved I didn't even need the switch which I returned and got a full refund no problem.

My 45 year old son did it in the shop, and it only took a short time before we were washing clothers again, and no water on the floor. The part came through the day after I ordered them. Thank you very much