UMV1152BAS - Instructions

I was concerned I wouldn't get the correct glass plate, but it fit perfectly.

removed two screws,lowered the glass shield,removed the burned out bulb and replaced it with the new one. I ordered the bulb from parts select and recieved it two days later. It was a pleasure to deal with them, and certainly use them again.

Unplug the unit before servicing. Need phillips screwdriver. Open door. Use step ladder to access and remove 2 small screws from top of the room air diffuser at top of unit. Slide diffuser slightly to the left to align the diffuser's plastic tab on the left side to rotate toward you. (The wires for the front control panel are at the far left side of this difuser, but difuser is slotted for easy removal). Once the difuser is removed you will see 1 screw at the top that secures the pannel cover on the left side of the unit. Remove screw and slide this panel slightly up and out. This exposes the plastic frame that holds the upper and lower door switches. To locate the door switches and observe how they work, close and open the door and watch the door (bayonets) open and close the micro switches. Do the (red) buttons on top of the switches move up and down when the door bayonets push and release? If the buttons do not "pop" up when opened the switch is defective. The switch frame is secured with 2 screws. Remove screws and rotate the unit out for easy access to the micro switch(s). The internal (spring?) on my unit that is suposed to allow the red (visible) button on top of the switch to "pop" up when the door is opened was broken. Carefully pry the switch outward while being careful to lift the plastic holder-piece that holds the switch in place. Be careful, there is a small pin on the frame, so rotate the switch OUT toward you while lifting (carefully) the plastic holder-piece (you will see it on top of the switch). You can use an ohm meter to test the continuity of the switches. But if the buttons don't "pop" they are defective. Replace switch and reassemble.

I had some difficulty removing the glass plate because of the awkward (upside down) position of the screw that retained it. After replacing the burned out bulbs and replacig the glass plate the problem of replacing the screw involved my dropping the thing several times before I got the screw threads to catch. I got a screw thread to catch enough to hold the glass plate in position and left it at that.

The hard part was trying to find the light bulb locally. The locally sold light bulbs were either too long, not dual element or not powerful enough. So I ordered the light bulb straight from PartSelect. When it came time to install the new light bulb I carefully removed the screw holding the plate in position so as not to loose it in my gas stove. I needed the mirror to line up the light bulb and screw it in. Once it was in I verified operation and closed up the plate being careful not to drop the screw into my gas stove. Problem solved.

ordered on the part select web site, came quickly, order was correct

I removed the unit from the wall. Took the cover off. Set the unit on its side. It revealed the working parts. Removed the old micro switches. Put in the new oness. Presto, it worked. Very easy for me.
The parts was delivered almost before my notice they were shipped.

took cover off, installed bulb.
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks

I replaced the whole component with all three switches in it even though only one switch was bad . Taking out one switch out of the holder unit would probably have damaged the unit that was holding the switches. Easy install and it works great again .

new glass tray

Fun and easy fix for my kids.

The countdown timer was working but no "cooking" happening. Did not hear the familiar sound of the heating part working.

Determined it might be some simple switches for under $15 dollars. Bought one of each. They allow the microwave to turn on/activate by signaling that the door is properly latched. My wife noticed that it was failing and then failed over the course of about a day. Several times where it worked, then did not work. The timer was counting down one time and then when she opened the door the microwave heating component turned on. Guess it had activated the switch as she was opening the door.

Procedure to repair
- Unplug
- Remove two screws on front top - allows you to remove the vent. Realized there was a charcoal filter there that I had never replaced so ordered that after the fix.
- Remove two screws to pull off the front right panel (area where your microwave buttons are) One at the top under the before mentioned vent and one under the microwave on the far right corner.
- Have someone hold the panel because wiring is to short to place it on a ledge while connected or take a picture and remove connections. I simply held it while my daughter undid the micro switches.
- Carefully remove micro switches. There were two "orange" button ones so I chose the top one to replace along with the green button one that I had ordered, so I simply pulled an orange from the bottom and a green from the top latch area. You may have remove the part that holds the switches since it was a little tough with the wires in the way and not knowing how the switches stay put.
- plug in new switches and place in the brackets that hold them in place
- reverse everything you did.
Viola - a working microwave vs purchasing a brand new for several hundred dollars or having to call in a technician.I love that my young kids did this project with me and we actually got it running. Don't like to have to throw away more items at the landfill.

Semi-Handy Man

Make sure to have your model number correct. First tray I purchased I didn't use the model number and just picked what I thought would work (KitchenAid), but didn't. Second attempt I put in the model number and received the correct one. Take out of the box and into the oven, that easy.

1. Removed cabinet screws (10-15?). 2. Removed cabinet. 3. Removed top interlock switch which actually was not defective. The press clip connection appeared as if it had been arcing for quite some time and the corrosion created resistance sufficient to prevent the current from getting through the switch. 4. Replaced switch anyway but broke plastic retaining clip despite every effort not to do so. Reset broken clip with super glue. 5. Reassembled cabinet and appliance is in good working condition.

Problem would come and go. Found service schematic inside unit. Perform all the suggested tests. One possible solution was the primary interlock switch shown on the schematic and a check found the switch stuck. It would free up some times but would stick again in the open position. Ordered switch which was a simple plug in unit.

diagnosed defective 'door-shut switch' in the switch holder assembly. rather than replace switch, replaced entire locker holder assembly which made for a very simple and easy repair...not to mention very inexpensive.