TFK25PRDAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

Simple job, empty the door shelves, remove top hinge, lift door off bottom hinge, remove bottom hing. The reassembly is the reverse, with a little cleaning along the way and a little white lithium grease on the hinge pins and cams.

Using my refrigerator brand and model number, it took about a minute to find the replacement part number.Once I found it, I ordered the part. Within two days I received the part. Then all I had to do was snap the Dairy Door in place. No tools were required. PartSelect made the entire process very easy, and I would definitely use you again. Thanks!

First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide.
I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place.
After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm.
The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.

used pliers to break revit,installed new shelf left side front is held by screw with phillips head and the back is connected by revit installed new revit.

Note difference between Freezer and Fresh food door.
Also, did not need the Door Stop but should have ordered one water tube union (PS299116). See Freezer below

Fresh Food Door
1. Removed cap at top of fresh food door (Philips screw) and used socket wrench to remove two hex head screws from top of refrigerator.
2. This allowed door to be lifted off base.
3. Removed door stop, hinge shim and broken cam riser from door using socket set and nut driver. Two hex head screws.
4. Replaced all three parts with new parts, re-attached using existing Hex Screws. Make sure cam riser is aligned properly to allow door to fit back on hinge. If it's slightly off, the door will not settle on hinge properly.
5. Replaced door, make sure it aligns properly before tightening Hex Screws to top of Refrigerator. Replaced cap at top.

Same process for freezer door except:
a. At the top of the door, I had an electrical connection due to Ice/water dispenser in the door. This connection is fairly easy to disconnect.
b. There is a drain tube that runs inside the door and through the hinge assembly in the base of the door. The door can not be removed unless the tube is disconnected or cut. There was a Water Tube Union (PS299116) just beyond the bottom hinge which I was able to disassemble to free the tube. However, this took considerable force and luck and I would recommend you consider buying a new part in case it breaks or you need to cut the tube. Otherwise you will not be able to get the door off. Once the tube is disconnected, it easily slides through the hinge and the door can be removed.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

I just slid a flat head screwdriver under each handle piece (between the original white handles and chrome plate), and slightly twisted. The pieces popped right off. I did this to the top, and bottom pieces covering the handle on the door.
After that I used a star like screwdriver (not sure exactly of the size) to unscrew the piece holding the actual handle bar to the door.
From there I just reversed my order and put everything back together. Almost like Legos.
Really easy job.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

I repaired as follows. 1) Open freezer door. 2)Removed ice maker bin. 3) removed screw with broken tab on it. 4) install new shield slide to side.
5) Reinstall screw. 6) Grab TAB (tasty adult beverage) and enjoy on back deck while talking about how good you are at repairing stuff.... HA!

I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.

Replaced flapper

Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!