TFJ20JRXAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks

Used my fingers and pulled the old one our and pressec the new one in all in about 30 seconds. Saved at least a $60 service call.

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

Simple job, empty the door shelves, remove top hinge, lift door off bottom hinge, remove bottom hing. The reassembly is the reverse, with a little cleaning along the way and a little white lithium grease on the hinge pins and cams.

Moved all items from door storage into refrigerator shelves. Removed top hinge cover held by single screw and top hinge plate held by two bolts. Lifted up door to clear bottom hinge pin and removed door. Covered open front of refrigerator with plastic wrap to keep cold in refrigerator with door removed. Laid door on kitchen counter top and removed bottom hinge assembly held on by two bolts. Replaced upper cam located on bottom of door and screwed the hinge assembly back on to bottom of door (helps to keep the three plates in same sequence and note the position of cam). Drilled out the rivet that holds the lower cam to the bottom hinge pin. Removed old lower cam and and replaced with new cam and secured to lower hinge assembly with pan head screw and nut (instead of rivet). Replaced door back onto lower hinge pin and secured upper hinge pin with original bolts. Placed cover on upper hinge assembly and secured with original screw. Removed plastic wrap from front of refrigerator and moved the items that originally were stored in the door back to provide weight needed for door to close properly. All done and the door works like new, and all in less than 45 minutes. Would have been a more difficult job without the pioneering of people on this site. Thanks to all!

After replacing the solenoid several months ago, I concluded that the problem could only be the electronic circuit board that controls the timing and delay. The part arrived sooner than I expected. Installing it involved removing only six screws and unplugging two connections. The whole project took only about 10 minutes and now my ice maker works like new. Total cost was less than $55. Saved me several hundred dollars not to mention my personal time had I called in a repairman.

David O.
Albuquerque, NM

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

After figuring out how to remove the old broken clip, replacement was easy. Had to use a small putty knife to open the release on the bottom underside of the clip(between the clip & the refrig) . By looking at the replacement piece it was easy to figure out.

Remove back cover, exposing fan motor. Turn off power, remove nut on fan blades. Remove fan carefully, do not bend. Unhook wiring harness. Remove three screws that hold the motor on the back frame. Remove old motor, install new. Carefully, reinstall fan blades, hook up wiring, and your ready for tryout. Also do some cleaning while your there. Clean old fan blades with hot soapy water or contact cleaner. Everything runs better clean!

Get 2 "door closing cams" yep. Same as some others here. Found some black plastic pieces on the floor, when door wasn't closing right. I took the door off by taking off the top bracket. Very easy. Bottom bracket has the broken cam riveted to it. Need hacksaw to get this off then punch it through with hammer and a screwdriver. This is the only part that took a little while. Replace the closing cam and find a small nut & bolt or screw to replace the rivet you just sawed in half. Replace the closing cam that is on the bottom the the door as well. Even if yours isn't broken. Replace it anyway. Put door back on and done. Not a diffucult project if you know about the rivet and needing 2 closing cams beforehand. Good luck

The Ice maker would not run through a cycle. It would fill with water and produce ice but would need a little help by pressing up on the ejector to run through its cycle. Otherwise, it would not bring the ice to the holding bend. Sometimes the water would not fill. The icemaker was making ice it just was not letting the ice maker run through its cycle so I figured it had to be the circuit board. I bought the circut board which was easy to install.
1) Turn off water line and unplug power.
2) Pop off front panel plate at ice cube select switch area.
3) Unscrew 4 screws that holds control panel housing in place.
4) Remove panel assembly by disconnecting two different wiring plugs.
5) Unscrew 2 screws that allows access to control circuit board at end cap.
6) Remove circuit board by sliding it out of the assembly housing.
7) Install new circuit control board in assemble housing and screw on end cap retainer.
8) Attach two electrical wiring plugs.
9) Install control board assemble housing into frig opening and secure with 4 screws.
10) Install front panel plate (pops on).
11) Plug in power and turn on water line.

I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.

Unplug the electrical power to the refridgerator, remove old valve, marking which electrical wire set goes to which solenoid valve. Cut the nut fasteners from the ice maker and front door water tubes. Leave the nut fastener on the supply line.

New valve - remove plastic shipping protection guard, remove rubber cap from supply connection, bend mounting bracket to a 90 degree bend, attach electrical wire reducers to the small wattage solenoid wires then to the solenoid, attach large wattage solenoid wires to the large solenoid, push ice maker tube into the small quick-connection(no nut fastener needed), push the front door water into the large quick-connection, finally mount valve asembly using same holes in frame as held the old valve assembly. Plug in the power. Solenoid valves may take an hour or so to operate.