Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
bad light socket
unplugged refrigerator. removed light bulb from old socket. unsnapped old light socket and pulled it out just enough to diconnect the electrical plug that plugs into the socket . discarded the old socket and plugged in new socket. snapped in new socket into refrigerator. i watched how to do this simple procedure on you tube and decided to do it myself. easy easy easy
1 Remove trim pieces above and below the handles. Loosen by prying from base with flat screw driver. 2. Remove the two screws fastenig each door handle to its door. Remove handles. 4. Secured each new door handle to its door with existing screws. 5. Clean and reinstall trim pieces.
Unplug the refrigerator Front cover of ice dispenser snaps off. Remove the 4 screws from the ice chute. Unplug the control module that opens the ice chute. Leave hanging while removing the 4 screws that hold the solenoid in place.(one is a ground wire...note location before taking apart). Unplug the two wires to the solenoid. To install the new solenoid put the plunger in place and at the same time hook on the trip arm of the clapper door of the ice chute. Plug in the two wires to the new solenoid Replace the 4 screws. Plug in the Control modules and screw back in place Plug in the refrigerator. Do a trial test. Replace the cover
Replaced water valve. Removed cardboard rear cover, disconnected one copper waterline in, two plastic waterlines out, two electrical connectors and one mounting screw. Reverse to install replacement valve except plastic water lines connect to new valve by inserting into the valve instead of threading onto the fitting. Slide the plastic fittings further onto the water line and insert the ends into the valve. FYI .......water in the door functions independent of icemaker, I had water but no ice. Working well now, actuator pad and dispenser grill were replaced due to wear [cosmetic] and had nothing to due with the icemaker malfunctioning.
the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.
The refrigerator side of the side by side refrigerator stopped regulating its temperature causing cans and bottles to burst.
I removed the back panel held in place by 5 screws. I located the thermostat and disconnected it from the wire connection to another part. Due to the connection requirement, I had to cut the wires from the original part and splice the connector with wires to the new part. After securing the spliced wires and covering in electrical tape, I replaced the panel and all screws.
Removed 2 phillips head screws to remove ice maker (could have just loosened them) Pulled fan off of shaft Removed 2 phillips head screws on motor bracket , disconnected three motor wires & removed motor. reversed process to install new motor & fan blade. Space was a little tight for two hand and arms, but do-able.
Removed the ice bin and maker, then removed cover from the rear that covered the solenoid that controls the dispensing mechanism. Replace solenoid. The tricky part here is that there is a styrofoam cover around the solenoid pin that needs to be superglued into place and oriented properly during replacement. All electrical feeds snap out neatly and are easily replaced. Reassemble ice dispenser and bin, and viola, your back in business.
There were not two screws as the instructions said. There was only one screw and I had to firmly pull it out after taking out the one screw. Then, to put the new one in, I had to line up two slots on two knob-like things and push it in firmly. Then screw the one screw in.
ice maker leaked water slowly and froze the cubes together
The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
41 of 60 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice was melting and freezing in bucket
Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.
Panel hot to touch between freezer & refrigerator. Motor hot, fan not rotating.
Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.
The selector switch to select water - crushed ice - or cubes broke off
Removed the face plate this just gets popped off. removed the four screws to release the unit. unplugged the wiring harness, removed the two screws that hold the bracket in place that the control unit is housed in. Slid the old unit out and replaced with the new unit. installed the bracket over the control unit put two screws back, plugged the wiring harness's back in. Slid the whole unit back in replaced the four screws and put the face plate back on. Very Easy.
Order 2 cams as recommended in other posts. I didn't realize until the project was finished that the 2 cams fit together to tilt the door toward the refrigerator and force the door to catch. 1. Removed all items from door storage. 2. Removed top hinge cover held by single screw and top hinge plate held by two bolts. 3. Lifted up door to clear bottom hinge pin and removed door. 4. Turned door upside down and removed bottom hinge assembly held on by two bolts. 5. Replaced upper cam located on bottom of door and screwed the hinge assembly back on to bottom of door. 6. Drilled out the rivet that holds the lower cam to the bottom hinge pin. 7. Removed old lower cam and and replaced with new cam and secured to lower hinge assembly with pan head screw and nut (instead of rivet). NOTE: The metal shim that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken, we used a small washer instead of the replacement shim. 8. Replaced door back onto lower hinge pin and secured upper hinge pin with original bolts. 9. Placed cover on upper hinge assembly and secured with original screw. This is a project my husband and I completed together :) Perhaps we will store lighter items on the door to lessen the chances of the cams deteriorating again.
First turned off power and removed top shelf. Then I used a flathead to slowly pry the switch out by the two sides. You just anlge ita bit and it slideds out easily. Then I disconnected the wires from the old switch, connected the new one and installed the new switch by snapping it back into the cutout.
