TAA600 Amana - Instructions

I simply took the old switch out and put in the new one. The part arrived very qickly and the website was super easy to use.
thank you so much!

This was my fist time attempting to fix a washer. I had to guess on the length of the belt since the model number on the machine had worn off and the belt had snapped in a way that made determining the length difficult. At first, I ordered a belt that was too small. I realized this after I was unable to remount the motor stand onto the bottom of the machine. This model had the motor assembly right in front of the unit. It was easily accessed after removing the panel on the front of the machine. It was easy to remove the 4 screws (they were all visible) on the motor stand. After that I was able to disconnect the pump belt. This machine has seperate belts for agitation and the pump. The pump belt must be removed in order to install the agitator belt because they both are driven by the same shaft and the pump belt is positioned on the bottom. There is also a tension wheel for the agitator belt which might be easily overlooked. Make sure to install the agitator belt so that the tension wheel is on the outside of the belt's path. The whole job is fairly easy if you have the right part to begin with. If you have to force the belt onto the wheels, then you probably have a belt that is too small.

After I replaced the timer, the washer still would not wash or spin. So my son replaced the lid check switch. It was hard to remove the screw, but he finally managed to remove it and easily replaced the switch. The washer works perfectly. We kept the timer installed (also easy to do by removing the old and replacing it with the new by just unplugging wires and I think one screw) because the old one had not worked properly for a few years when I had a similar problem which resolved, except it would only work in main cycle with soaking which was sufficient for me. This large capacity washer is in good shape and I hope will last at least another 5 - 10 years. ).

Determined that the lid switch was not completing the circuit. I then removed the 3 wires from their posts along with the 1 screw and removed the bad switch. Then, in reverse order installed the new switch. The part was 1/3rd the cost of the part sold locally. I ordered the part at 3:15pm Monday afternoon and it arrived at 1:00pm Tuesday- the next day. UNBELEIVABLE SERVICE....!

The Speed Queen people were nice enough to provide a swing out door on the back of the machine to access the mixing valve. I had to pry it open because they did not supply enough slack in the hose that attaches to the mixing valve. The hose clamp securing the outlet hose to the valve was difficult to remove as the screw was positioned by someone that assembled the machine with no thought given to if it would ever to be taken apart.

Be sure to unplug the machine before attempting this repair. I unplugged the dryer instead and was greeted with a shower of sparks as I removed the valve. Luckily there was no damage to me or the machine. I needed some lubricant to slide the hose onto the new valve. There was some Linatone oil for my dog's coat handy. It did the trick I buttoned the machine back up and it works as good as the day I bought it.

It might be wise to replace the gaskets between the water hoses and the inlet valve. They are just standard garden hose gaskets. Replacing the strainers on the faucet side might be a good idea also. I took a video of the Speed Queen in action and will post it to You Tube. "They Don't Make 'em Like This Anymore"

checked lid switch ,plunger stuck in the in position 1 amp fuse blown took switch apart it was full of green copper corrosion stopping plunger from moving correctly. replaced switch and fuse and wow washer works

I looked at the common problems in the owners manual and one item was the lid was not closed or the lid switch was bad. I took off the control panel and there was a schematic inside. This showed 2 lid switches. When trying to see if one switch was closed as it should be, touching the multimeter to the contacts was enough to get the washer going. .

Removed control faceplate (2 screws on top edge and flip forward). Removed wires one-by-one with needle-nose pliers and replaced on new switch to avoid mixing the connections. Removed screw and replaced switch then, replaced screw. Moderately tightened new part and operated lid. Listened for click open and closed. Adjusted switch position for proper "click". Tightened screw and replaced front panel. Done in about 10 minutes.

I removed the old lid switch assembly from washer and one by one exchanged the wires to replace correctly on the new part. I placed the new lid switch assembly in the washer using the screw to tighten the part in place. I turned on the washer and after the water level stop the wash cycle began immediately. Friends were impressed I used your web site to determine the part selection by the previous reviews and that I replaced the part with ease. Thank you for an user friendly web site.

Granville County/North Carolina
6/13/2010

Opened top - removed old switch assembly. Plugged in new switch and re-assembled. Had to reopen top when washer filled and did not start cycle. Switch assembly needed moved slightly in order to engage second switch.

Three brake pads are located just above the drive pulley and space symmetrically around the brake wheel. Remove the one screw per brake, slide brake out of brake wheel and replace with new brake. Apply silicone grease to new brakes before installing. Tools: 5/16 boxed end wrench.

Remove front panel. Then remove top of washer, two bolts at front of top. Then remove two bolts that hold switch assembly to top on right side of top. Switch gets pried out. It just sits in with small pins holding it in place. Wire connectors hold very tight. Install is reverse.

Good.

Remove two sheet metal screws at bottom front. Tip up and remove front panel. Tip up top panel. Hold it up to allow access to rear of drum. Use soft piece of wire to loop around top of spring. Pull 4 springs up and off drum. Rotate the springs to release them from the base plate. Starting at the rear of the drum slip new spring end into washer base. Slip wire loop on the top of the new spring. Pull and stretch new spring onto drum. Repeat 3 more times. Replace front cover....you're done!

The only real problem was one spring loaded hose clamp to the rear of the pump. If it had been a standard clamp like the others I would have cut the repair time down by 2/3rd's. I did find that by removing one of the long wash drum springs, I then had more room to get my channellocks back there to get the stupid clamp to compress, and then used a screw driver to push the clamp back off the the connecting port. I replaced the camp w/ a standard clamp and the reassembly went quick and easy. Note, If you replace the pump drive belt with a new one, you WILL have to adjust the belt tension after a few minutes use.