STF2940HS1 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

Took off the front, and put a come along to rafters in garage to lift tub.
Replaced shock asborers, waited for spring kit to be delivered, replacing all.
Still isn't working need to check wiring to some compoments to see if a wire is broken.
Hope to have it washing soon

Followed the kit instructions to the letter. working around tight clearences was really the only thing to slow me down. The other posts tell the rest of the story better than I can.

I removed the bottom front panel ( 2 screws) and about 8- 10 inches back were the shock absorbers...the one on the left was easiest nothing in way I squeezed the locking tab and pushed the pin thru to remove the shock absorber...on the right side was a little tricky but got my arm round the drain hose and small pump and pushed that pin thru as well...installed new shocks and was good to go...I did call a local repair business here in belleview florida was told the shocks themselves would cost 37.00 for the pair and about 150 - 175 in labor...I paid 22.00 from parts select and did my own labor thanks for all the help...les

You could do the replacement by just removing the maintenance panel on the front, but removing the rear panel gives you more options for getting at the shocks.

The front panel comes off with 2 screws, the back has a lot of screws holding it on, a cordless drill is the way to go.

Prying on the head of the plastic bolt with a pair of needle-nosed pliers while pushing down on the tab seemed to work well. I did have to remove a small box that houses electronics to remove the one from the right side.

While I was in there, I tightened up the numerous bolts that holds the drum shell together. Machine is much smoother now and no leaks.

My washer was leaking a bit on the left side, apparently from the place water enters from filler. I spent a bit of time inspecting that side of the thing and my jaw dropped when I finally saw the other side of the washer, the upper shock was broken off and the thing was not connected.

I got my parts fast and removing the pins was a bit troublesome but some from access standpoint, but it wasn't hard - just took some extra effort and prying from the head side. Seems to run better with new shocks and no more leaking so far.

It took more time to remove the screws on the back panel..
remove back panel for better access..
remove speed access box on lower left side ( 2 screws) to get access to nylon pegs, squeeze down on tabs and pull out . the little tabs are on the oppsite side of the split nylon...
Replace shocks and nylon pegs..
reattach speed access box.
put the back on.....
easy job, the new shocks are part metal, make sure the metal side of shocks go towards the tub...

I had read the instructions and suggestions on the site. The product arrived with a good set of instructions. I used the deep socket to push in the "catch" on the pins. Once the catch is depressed I pulled and twisted a bit to get the pins out. After I pulled both broken shocks out I replaced them as instructed. I did use a long wooden dowel to get the pins all the way in. Read the instructions and follow what they tell you and it'll be done in under 15 min.

Disconnected hoses, unplugged, took off top and back of washer. Removed the white plastic thingys that retained the broken shock absorbers. Installed the new ones, using a hammer and 1/2" copper pipe section to place white plastic thingys. Put back, top on. Reconnected hoses, plugged in. Presto!

First I removed two screws in front lower panel to access lower portion of washer machine. Use pilars to push four plastic pins from each end of two vibration/shock abs. Job was very easy and took less than 30 minutes to complete.

First I unplugged. The machine from the outlet then disconnected the two water supply lines from the machine. Next I removed the back panel to gain access to the bottom of the drum. Next I took a nut driver and used it to depress the little tab on the push pin that hold the bottom part of the strut on. After getting the pins out I replaced the old strut assembly withe the new one. I used the nut driver again. But this time I used it as a set tool. Place the nut driver on the end of the push pin and gently tap with a hammer. Until the pin is all the way in. After that I reversed the assembly process to put the machine back together.

After some research online about my Frigidaire Washer, I pre-determined that the problem could likely be the lock mechanism. I ordered the part and it arrived within 3 business days. My son removed the screws from the back of the washer, slid the top off and removed the old part and replaced it with the new part. It took about 20 mins. The machine is now working properly again. The door catch that I ordered did not work with the door lock I ordered. However, the old door catch that was still in good working order does work with the new door lock and switch assembly that I purchased.

EASiER than pie! Took off broken part, screwed on new part! Voila! Done. As good as new.

Washer handle fixed!

Everything on the video was fine except when reinstalling the shocks with the plastic pins it was almost impossible to get a hammer back inside to knock in shock on left side and had a plastic part on the right side behind the shock absorber which you could not use a hammer and could pry on that part out of fear of damaging it when reinstalling pin So the video just said the right side just like the left but each side was different in what was located by each side Just confusing meaning you had to be creative in solving them!

I took the broken dispenser out, slide the new one in and rearrange the wiring. It took longer to move the washing machine from it's location and return it than it did for the repair. The key element it was the right part and fit properly.