Models > SGR341FC0 > Instructions

SGR341FC0 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for SGR341FC0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SGR341FC0
76-90 of 293
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Tumbler not moving

  • Customer: Francis from Middletown NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.

dryer was squealing loadly

  • Customer: MIKE from MASSAPEQUA PARK NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer

Dryer drum stopped spinning

  • Customer: Ron from Senatobia MS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

The clothes were not getting dry, no matter how long they ran

  • Customer: Bruce from madison OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

no heat

  • Customer: James from Alpena MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"

squeel when turning

  • Customer: Bob from Lynchburg VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!

bearing went out

  • Customer: james from tahlequah OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
took apart and replaced parts easy to do but no one in my town can get me parts. thay want 100.00 gust to come out and look at it so found parts online and thats that

Thump or clang at regular intervals while in operation

  • Customer: Scott D from East Fallowfield PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
UNPLUGGED the dryer!!! Search this site they have instructions for many of the tasks they sell parts for... disconnect the vent hose, removed the access panel for the motor & belt (rear) (1/4 nut driver), slipped the belt off the idler pulley and motor pulley, carefully lifted the front edge of the top panel & rotated it back on the hinges, labeled and removed the door interlock wires (2), removed 4 screws securing the top of the front panel (5/16 nut driver) (magnetic is best), removed a yellow guide also attached to the top of the front support (5/16 nut driver), rotated the top of the front panel clear of the drum opening (while supported) and lifted the front panel off the bottom guides, carefully lifted the back of the drum straight up about an inch while supporting the front of the drum, remove the drum from the opening created by removing the front panel (the belt should come out with the drum, removed the rear parts of the new bearing (atteched to teh back of the dryer) 5/16 nut driver... you will need a helper to catch the ball bearing holder on the exterior back of the dryer in the middle, unscrew the drum half of the bearing assembly from inside the drum (3 phillips head screws). I have done this several years ago and you will be amazed at how much dust and lint there is... CLEAN AND VACUUM EVERYWHERE AND THEN ALL THE PLACES YOU MISSED DONT FORGET THE VENT HOSE. Clean all of the old grease from the back of the drum and dryer. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget the new grease and DON"T loose the cute little ball bearing that comes in the new kit. There are lots of sharp metal edges inside so use caution and hopefully you got a new belt since belt replacement requires all of the same steps except for the actual bearing removal.

I can attest to this system only on my model since this is the second bearing I have done.

Sure beats the cost of a new dryer!!! Thanks PARTS SELECT This is the 5th appliance I have repaired for freinds and family with parts purchased from your site.

glides clicking paper clip in seal

  • Customer: bart from sullivan IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
removed top plus control panel laid on back then removed bottom panel and door panel. This made access to drum simple put new glides on and seals back together and running less than an hour.PS dont let little clips fall down in motor area pain to get out,also great time to clean out unit

dryer door wouldnt close

  • Customer: karen from aurora IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!

Broken switch

  • Customer: Richard from Yucca Valley CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed rear cover, unplug 2 spade connectors, twist out old switch, twistin new switch. plug connectors, install cover

Loud squealing

  • Customer: John from Avis PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

squeaking dryer driving insane

  • Customer: greg from great cacapon WV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.

Broken dryer belt

  • Customer: Sean from Hewitt TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
1.Removed access panel on back of machine in order to place a block under the drum(see step 3).2. Removed the top (clips), 3.removed the front panel(clips), block placed under drum earlier prevents drum from tilting and makes removing front panel with door very easy.4. Slipped new belt on. 5.Replaced front panel and removed block under drum. 6. Aligned belt and checked movement of drum, 7. attched belt to pulley on motor and positioned belt tensioner.8. Installed top and access panels.
This repair is very straight forward, block under drum makes things easy, since the drum stays level when the front panel is removed and replaced.

Dryer making horrible squeaking sound when running

  • Customer: SHARON from SUMMERVILLE SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.
All Instructions for the SGR341FC0
76-90 of 293