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Models > SGR341AQ3 > Instructions

SGR341AQ3 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for SGR341AQ3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SGR341AQ3
16-30 of 294
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Dryer drum would squeak and squeal until warmed up, but progressively got worse as the days drug on.

  • Customer: Chad from Glyndon, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

lint filter did not fit "squarely" into its place

  • Customer: Jeff from Bethalto, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
replaced old filter, only to find that the new one had the same issue. After closer examination, I determined the filter guide that screws into place, which I had removed earlier to clean lint out, did not hold the lint casing correctly. I removed and reinstalled the piece that has the metal moisture sensors, and replaced it, ensure both screws held the lint casing as it should. Now I have two lint filters that fit perfectly! So, if you ever remove the piece wtih the metal sensors, make sure that the lint casing is screwed in correctly when replacing.

switch burnt out

  • Customer: paul from west keansburg, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
first you had to take back top panel off remove wires from switch turn old switch to the right pull it out then connect wires to new switch put switch back in screw back panel back on very easy 10 minutes tops thank you

Dryer would not ignite

  • Customer: David from Murrieta, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body

My husband ruined the old latch by trying to shut the door too hard, and the old latch fell down into the inside of the dryer.

  • Customer: Michelle from Dallas, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!

no heat in the dryer

  • Customer: Joy from Lakeville, MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.

black streaks on clothes from failed drum glide and felt

  • Customer: Rodney from Mountain View, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
first i used a flathead to lift up the top of the dryer. there were two prongs that you press in to detach the top.

then there were two screws on the inside along each side that i needed a phillips to remove. one screw on each side.

i also needed to detach a cable and cut the tie.
from there, it was easy to pull off the front of the dryer.

the first noticeable thing was HOW much lint there was inside! so out came the vacuum and away went all the dust and lint.. a TON of it.

then i used a sharp knife to remove all the existing upper and lower felt. that took awhile, and i got as much as i could.

then i applied the TOP felt, nice and center, and from there, the FELT was applied, which fit perfectly. I let it dry/set for about 2 hours.

for the Front drum glide, AN IMPORTANT NOTE! i ordered only ONE drum glide, but you need TWO! I had to order a second one, and i dont know why they dont come in pairs.. so the front drum glides snap on pretty easily to the front of the drum. press hard and they SNAP into place. once they are snapped on, you just put back on the front, replace the screws, re-connect and re-tie the cable, and close the lid!

Drum making thumping noises, clothes getting caught behind drum.

  • Customer: Gerald from Baltimore, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I've always been a "do it yourselfer". If I can fix it, I save money. I took the dryer apart by lifting the top up like car hood. Then I removed the front panel. The front drum glide snapped into place easily where the other one had broken off. The felt strip that you sent was much shorter than the one on the dryer, so once I used the wire wheel to remove the old glue, I cut off the section of the felt that was bad and replaced it with the new felt. The turns much quieter and clothing doesnt get caught behind the drum anymore.

Motor shaft broke

  • Customer: Beverly from Blairsville, GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
had to remove the belt and drum and then remove the motor and replace it...put the belt on and then the hard part was to get the drum in place without the belt coming off. New Motor works quieter than the old one did, so I assume the dryer came with a defective motor to begin with and then the shaft finally broke. It runs very quiet now, but never did before. Even a service man came when it was new but said that was normal. Now we know it was not....there was a problem from the start.

Old Dryer drum veins degraded and broke down.

  • Customer: Alfred from Loveland, CO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

No heat/intermittent heat. Ignitor glowed but no gas flame.

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Richmond, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.

Gas Dryer would not heat; Drum turned

  • Customer: Anna from Palo Alto, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Internet Search suggested that I check the Igniter, Sensor, thermal cutoff and Ignition Coils. down in the bottom of the Gas Dryer. With top cover off and front panel on, I put a mirror down in the bottom of the Dryer. I watched to see if the Igniter and the Sensor would turn on the Gas Valve. In the reflection of the Mirror, I could see a glow, but heard NO clicks. Repeated several times. Same Result. I suspected the Ignition Coils were faulty.

You suggested replacing BOTH. Parts arrived in 2 days. :-) Easy disassemble and reassemble with screwdriver. (Front Panel must be removed). While I was at it, I replaced the Drive Belt, too. It was 6 years old.
Everything worked fine.
After 6 years in a Garage, the Dryer was filled with Dust. Use the opportunity to Vacuum out the dust.

Squealing sound Idler arm and pulley

  • Customer: Lewis from Thornton, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
This is actually a white consolidated IND. brand, but that wasn't on your list. Be sure to check your tensioner pully if you hear squealing coming from the dryer. I changed the felt ring and the support bearing before realizing that my pully bushing was the cause of the noise. If you have squealing then spray a little wd40 on the bushing and shaft, if the noise stops, then you found the smoking gun. Replace the pulley. Unhook the spring and it comes right off. No tools needed.

Dryer Drum Squealing Loudly!

  • Customer: john from waynesboro, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

Wretched screeching noise

  • Customer: Paul from Broadalbin, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
All Instructions for the SGR341AQ3
16-30 of 294