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Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.
When I originally purchased my stove, there was a large paper describing stove features. It was glued on and when I removed it, it left glue which I could not remove. I s hould have returned stove, but I didn't.
So, after several years of it bothering me, I decided to replace the oven panel. I ordered it one day and it arrived the very next day. It was an easy job to replace. Just remove two screws in back and replace the panel. While I was at it I also replaced the racks. Now I have a brand new oven,thanks to PartsSelect!
The first challenge is always how to get the appliance apart; in this case how to open the top of the stove. There are two clips one on each side towards the front that you need to push in to release the top. However before you do this you need to unscrew and remove each of the burners from the top of the stove. After that, push the clips in with a flat blade screwdriver from each side to lift up the top. You will need to remove completely the top back plate on the rear of the appliance to get to the igniter module where you plug in the wires from the individual igniters. Then you also need to remove the top four screws from the lower rear plate to allow it to be pulled open enough to help thread the wire from the new igniter through. After that you simply figure out which wire (they are individually colored based on their position on the burner) and disconnect from the igniter module. Carefully pull it out watching where it came from so you can rout the new wire in a similar manner. Then remove it completely pulling it through the top of the stove and replace with the new igniter. Reverse the steps to put everything back together and you should be good to go. Be prepared to take a little extra time to clean the cook top as once you remove the burner you will see everything that has over the years accumulated between the burner and the stove top. All together it took me about a 1/2 hour (including the cleaning).
Turn off the breaker to the range. Unplug, too. Took off the 8 screws that hold the upper back panel on. Took a picture of the wire setup (this ain't my first rodeo). Removed two screws on the bottom of the old latch that hold it in place. Carefully removed the wire leads with needle-nose pliers because I didn't want to replace the wire leads. Reconnected the wires to the new latch, replaced the two screws to hold it onto the oven. Tested with the rocker switch on top and the oven door, both worked. Put the back panel on with the 8 screws.
Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Broken oven handle
I removed the handle from the door, replaced the old one with the new one............. 1, 2, 3, just that easy. The replacement part arrived very quickly and the price could not be beat. Would I use them again...........Yes!
I had to bring the new handle to the Hardware store and have them pick out screws that would work. The only problem is that I live 12 miles one way from the Hardware store. My advise is to order scews when ordering the handle.
This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.
I broke the glass by hitting it with the edge of a broom
Clean off all broken glass and wipe down the debree,figure what side the glass goes then unscewed the base then the sides then add gorrilla glue on the edges to help set the glass in place had some hold it the screw th center bottom in first then got the sides in place with the bottom rack then screw it all back in to place making sure the side and top were in place right that was it.
Removed old trim kit and handle installed new parts but was having problems with glass fitting between handle and bottom bracket there was a gap between glass and handle when installed fist time after disassembling again I found that the door frame it self had to be tapped back into alignment to be square but once the adjustments were made the installation was a breeze