SDE3606AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Pulled out the broken part than easily snapped the new part into place..

Disconnected the lint vent and exhaust duct from motor assembly. Removed belt and drum then took out motor. You have to disconnect the fly wheel and housing to swap out motor. Motor is secured to assembly by 2 clamps, remove and replace engine. From there go back the way you came. Make notes of any wiring that you disconnect (dryer door/cycling thermostat)to eliminate any guess work putting it back together. The dryer is put together by sheet metal screws, small socket wrench very helpful.I disassembled the front of dryer and removed the top.

I did a quick research online and found PartSelect to have the best price. I ordered my part on Monday 8/6 and to my tremendous surprise FedEx delivered it Tuesday 8/7!! I did not pay for overnight delivery. My son happened to come by that day and he took a small flathead screwdriver, pried the old one out and inserted the new part. Done in 5 minutes! PartSelect will be my supplier from now on.

Changed out the fuse. Didn t take care of the problem

I watch the instructional videos. Real easy to do.

I checked the thermal fuse with a Volt Meter and found that the fuse was bad. I replaced the thermal fuse.

Removed the front of the dryer. Took out the drum. Now everything inside is easy to get to. You do not need to remove the top. Upon inspection we found that we also needed to replace both felts, teflon guides, drive belt, and both support rollers ans shafts. Basically we rebuilt the dryer. It's quiet now and working like new.

First, I replaced the male end which was just two screws and simple replacement of pushing the fastener into the door frame. When finished I noticed the female end was damaged as well. Glad the female part came as well. This required taken off the front trim around the door (four screws - 2 each side) and then the door. The installing of the female end was easy with a little push. The damaged female end was already hanging out so easy to grab and remove. Otherwise I would have had to remove the front panel. Note You need to put the door trim back on before reattaching the door.

This was real easy just slid the latch in front panel and attached to latch assembly to the door. The repair was about 45 seconds.

Began by unplugging power then removed the two screws from bottom access panel removed panel. Used a putty knife to push the release clips hold the top panel removed the two screws holding the front door and housing noted the three wires for the door switch removed those. Released the tension on the belt at the idler pulley lifted the drum assembly from the dryer. Tested the high limit fuse assembly with a volt ohm meter found no continuity indicating the fuse was blown. After reading the many other reviews I also test the high limit thermostat and found that it was not working as it should order bout parts and replaced all in reverse order plugged the unit back in and now have a working dryer.

Removed front lower panel bolts ,top panel bolts and removed panels. Then slid putty knife between top cover on each end and swung top cover back. Released tension off tub tensioner n removed tub . Removed snap ring n rollers n replaced with new. Insalled tub n belt n panels.

took dryer apart and replaced the drum support rollers. This did not work and problem is still there. The videos at the part select did not help since they seemed to be for a different dryer and nothing in them helped in any way to work on my unit. I did get a repair man out and was told that he had not seen one built like this one before.

The front of the dryer disassemled a bit differently than the video, but once I came to the conclusion I was going to rip it apart, I figured out how it needed to be done. That added about 5 min. to the repair. The main culprit was the idler pulley, it was nearly completely frozen, but I had ordered all the most likely components, so I also changed out the rear support rollers & front glides. The belt was actually in pretty good shape, but I swapped it out also so I wouldn't have to do it in the (near) future. I had to take a 2nd look at the video for belt routing on reassembly. Without tension on the belt it doesn't look like it would work, but once the tension is added the the belt separates so it's not rubbing on itself, like it would appear to do before being tensioned. All and all it was a fairly easy fix and for $47 incl. shipping, much cheaper than a new dryer or even a service call... Thanx

I just followed the intructions from the video on the website. That made the replacement easy.

Pulled the front, loosened the top, released the belt, pulled the tub, pulled the motor, and replaced the idler pulley lever and shaft and the idler pulley wheel, and the belt.